Nisos Ithaca (Itháki)

According to Homer this is the island home of Odysseus. Archaeologists can dispute whether or not this is so, but Homer still provides the best description of the island:
‘In Ithaca there are not wide courses, nor meadowlands at all. It is a pasture land of goats, and more pleasant in my sight than one which pastureth horses...,
Homer Odyssey

The island consists of two peninsulas connected by a narrow isthmus which is the backbone to Kólpos Aetou (Gulf of Molo). The steep-to mountains are bare and rocky, although in a few of the valleys there is a swathe of green fed by some small subterranean spring.

In common with many of the Ionian Islands, Ithaca has a strong seafaring tradition and many of the young make their living in the merchant navy. Many more have emigrated to Australia or South Africa, although a substantial number do return and it is not unusual to be greeted by an Australian ‘G’ day sport!’ around the island.

The important port on the island is Port Vathi, although there are a number of other harbours and anchorages. At Port Polis, a bay below the town of Stavros, the local school teacher looks after a small museum housing a collection of items from excavations on the supposed site of Odysseus' palace. Although the site of the palace has not been conclusively proved, a number of tripods and masks indicating later hero worship of Odysseus have been unearthed. Certainly the fact that Ithaca is on a major fault line may mean that the Homeric palace was completely buried by an earthquake, or perhaps the subject of Homer's epic lived in a comparatively modest dwelling.

ITHACA CHANNEL
(Stenón Ithakis)

Caution With the prevailing afternoon W-NW breeze there are strong gusts off the high land into the Ithaca Channel and off the Ε side of Ithaca. In July and August when the maistro is blowing these gusts can be quite severe. The most notorious spots are the S end of the Ithaca Channel, Órmos Frikou, and Kólpos Aetou (Gulf of Molo).

FRIKES

Imray-Tetra G121

Approach

A small harbour tucked into the W corner of Órmos Frikou on the NE of Ithaca. The buildings of the hamlet will not be seen until closer in, when two windmills on a bluff by the hamlet are conspicuous. Care must be taken of above and below-water rocks around the islets under Ák Áy Nikoláou.
By night The end of the mole is lit Fl.R.2s3M. The floating pontoon is lit with weak white lights along its length.
Note With the prevailing wind there are strong gusts out of Órmos Frikou and care is needed.

Mooring

Go stern or bows-to wherever there is room. In the summer many yachts go alongside because of the strong gusts into the harbour and you may well find that you will have to go alongside another yacht if the harbour is crowded. It is intended to install laid moorings at some time. Larger yachts can go stern-to the outside of the mole with a long line to it, keeping clear of the ferry berth.
Shelter The prevailing wind gusts down into here but once tied up it is a safe harbour. Strong NE winds could cause a problem. Southerlies cause a surge. Wash from fast ferries now rebounds inside the harbour and can damage yachts.
Authorities Port police. Charge band 2.
Note The recently installed pontoon has an alarming undulation with a southerly swell. It is likely that a d southerly blow will damage it in its present exposed position.

Facilities

Services Water and electricity on the quay and pontoon.
Provisions Most provisions can be found.
Eating out Tavernas around the waterfront.
Other Ferries to Fiskardho and Vasiliki in the summer.

General

The village is a picture postcard place, set at the bottom of a wooded ravine with a stream running down to the sea keeping everything green through the summer. A couple of windmills sit above the village on a rocky crag. Inevitably this once isolated village has begun to attract tourists, but it is still a gem and well worth a visit.

ANCHORAGES AROUND ÓRMOS FRIKOU

In general the anchorages on the Ν and W side of Órmos Frikou are the best with the prevailing wind. The bottom is mostly mud, shingle and weed, not everywhere good holding.
Port Áy Nikolaos The bay under Ák Áy Nikoláou. Good protection though there are gusts.
Khondrt Pounda Reasonable shelter though some swell may work its way into here.
Limenia A two-headed bay under Ák Khondri Pounda. There is a watersports centre in the W cove. Reasonable shelter.
Damouri Immediately Ε of Frikes. Poor shelter.
Mavrounas Calm weather anchorage.
Vathi Limani Calm weather anchorage. Ruined monastery ashore.

PORT KIONI

BA 2402

Approach

Straightforward, and there are no dangers from Ν or S. The three ruined windmills on the S point of the bay and the cluster of houses on the saddle of the hill are easily distinguished.
By night The end of the short mole in the bay is lit F.G.3M.
Note With the prevailing NW wind there are strong gusts down into the bay.

Mooring

Go stern or bows-to the quay. As the bottom shelves steeply you must drop your anchor in quite deep water, so have plenty of scope ready. Alternatively anchor off, though again, because it is so deep, you will be anchoring in 10+m. Because of limited swinging room it is probably better to anchor and take a long line ashore to the SW side of the bay or to the head of the bay. The bottom is hard mud and weed, uncertain holding in places.
Shelter With the prevailing wind there are strong gusts down into the bay, so ensure that your anchor is well in and holding. In southerlies a surge builds up and the harbour can become untenable. In strong southerlies it is better to head for Vathi.
Note In calm weather or light W winds a yacht can anchor off the cemetery in the SE, though again depths are considerable for anchoring.

Facilities

There is no water supply other than cisterns. Some provisions (baker, grocer) can be found. Tavernas on the waterfront.

General

Kióni is an attractive huddle of whitewashed houses around the slopes at the head of the bay. If the place seems to have more houses than people, this is because a large part of the population has emigrated to Australia and the USA and many of the houses are still owned by these expatriates. In twenty years the school roll has fallen from some 600 to 20. A caϊque runs from here to Port Vathi in the season. Pleasant walks over the saddle to a number of small coves.

Ithaca and Odysseus

Despite the paucity of archaeological evidence for Ithaca as the island home of Odysseus and despite Dorpfeldt's claim that Levkas is the real Ithaca,the Ithaca of today remains the favoured archaeological choice. Consequently the places on the island mentioned in Homer have nearly all been identified on Ithaca.

Port Polis is the harbour of ancient Polis which stood on the ridge above. Just Ν on the summit of a hill called Pelikata are the ruins of a Bronze Age settlement which is generally accepted to be the palace of Odysseus. Some of the walls and a section of paved road are all that remain. On the Ν side of Port Polis there existed a cave, the Cave of the Nymphs, where archaeologists have found Mycenaean pottery and bronze relics including a number of tripods and terra cotta masks indicating later hero worship of Odysseus.
Port Frikes can be identified with the Reithron of the Odyssey.
Órmos Pera Pigadhi lies at the bottom of Arethusa's spring. The spring still flows today and above it is the raven's rock (Korax) of the Odyssey, still called by the same name today. Above here lies the plateau of Marathia and it is probably here that Odysseus met Eumaneus the swine herd.

On Mt Aetos, on the narrow peninsula joining the two halves of the island, are the scanty remains of what may have been a shrine or temple.
All of this is largely speculation, and indeed Dorpfeldt was able to single out equally convincing sites on Levkas.

VATHI (Ithaca)

BA 2402
Imray-Tetra G12

Approach

Conspicuous From the Ν and S a belfry and the earthworks scar of the road on Mt Korini are conspicuous. Once into Kolpos Aetou (Gulf of Molo) the light structure and the chapel on Âk Ay Andréou are easily distinguished. The light structure on Nisis Katzurbo, the small island at the bottleneck entrance to Port Vathi, will also be seen.
By night Use the lights on Àk Ây Andréou F1.3s5M and on Nisis Katzurbo Fl.G.4s3M. Once into Port Vathi use the light on the small islet in the harbour Q.G.2M.
Dangers With the prevailing wind there are severe gusts down into Kólpos Aetou.

Mooring

Go stern or bows-to the quay on the W under the ferry berths. Alternatively go stern-to the outside of the mole sheltering the basin. Yachts also go stern or bows-to the protruding bit of quay at the head of the bay. The quay in the NE corner of the bay has been widened, making it possible for yachts to go stern or bows-to, keeping clear of fishing boat berths. The depths increase quickly off the quay and you will be dropping the anchor in depths of 10-15m so have plenty of-scope ready. The bottom is everywhere mud and thick weed, not the best holding until you get your anchor through the weed.
Shelter The prevailing wind tends to blow into the bay with some force so make sure your anchor is well in and holding. Once the breeze dies at dusk you will have no further worries. No sea enters with the wind and as long as care is taken in anchoring there is good all-round protection.
Authorities Port police and customs.