Nisoi Paxoi and Andipaxoi

Paxos and Anti-Paxos Islands

Seven miles south of Corfu lies Paxoi and its diminutive Andipaxoi. Five miles long and two miles wide, Paxoi until recently produced little else except olive oil for which it is famous. Harrods apparently sells only olive oil from Paxoi. Now tourists from Corfu regularly visit the island and in recent years a large number of villas have been built. The island is also popular with flotilla companies and in the summer the harbours and anchorages are full of yachts.
It was off Paxoi that a significant historical event occurred little remembered now, but of momentous importance in ancient times. The Egyptian pilot Thamus was bound for Italy when he was becalmed off Paxoi. A voice came over the water commanding him to announce that the great god Pan was dead. Twice he disobeyed until the third command, whereupon he obeyed. Immediately a great wail of lamentation arose from the sea. It is a strange story, recorded for us by Plutarch in the Moralia, and yet when Pausanias visited Greece a century later he found Pan was still actively worshipped.
Andipaxoi, immediately south of Paxoi, is only sparsely populated. It has some attractive anchorages but none safe except in settled weather. The few inhabitants cultivate their vines and olives and are dependent on Paxoi for their needs and entertainment.

ÓRMOS LÁKKA
BA2402
Imray-Tetra G11 A virtually landlocked bay on the Ν end of Paxoi.

Approach

Conspicuous The exact location of the bay is difficult to determine from the distance. From the W the lighthouse is conspicuous. From the Ν and Ε the light structures at the entrance will be seen when you are closer in.
By night Use the main light Fl(3)24s20M and closer in the lights at the entrance: Fl.G.2s3M/Fl.R.2s3M.

Mooring

Anchor off in the bay where convenient or anchor in the NW corner with a long line ashore. There is some room on the quay for small yachts to go bows-to, but care is needed as the depths are uneven. The bottom is sand and weed, good holding. Shelter Good shelter from the prevailing winds although if there is more Ν than W in the wind it can get uncomfortable in here. Uncomfortable and untenable in places with strong NE winds. With NE winds tuck into the Ε side as far as possible. Note At times it can get a bit smelly from sewage at the SE end of the bay.

Facilities

Water Sometimes available on the quay.
Provisions Most provisions can be obtained.
Eating out Tavernas and bars. Other PO. OTE. Ferry to Párga.

General

The anchorage is picturesque under olive-clad slopes with the huddle of houses of the hamlet at the head of the bay. The anchorage is popular in the summer and this is a lively place rather than a quiet hide-away.

PORT GAIOS 

(Port Gayo, Limin Paxon, Litnin Paxoi)
BA 2402
Imray-Tetra G Π

Approach

Conspicuous From the Ν the entrance to the harbour is difficult to see. From the distance the houses and tall chimney at Longos can be seen and as you close the port the lighthouse enclosed by a whitewashed wall on Nisis Panayia marks the entrance to the Ν channel. From the S the lighthouse on Nisos Andipaxoi is conspicuous and closer to Gaios a number of large white villas S of the town and the lighthouse and wall on Nisis Panayia are visible before the buildings of Port Gaios itself.

By night Use the light on Andipaxoi Fl.WR.6sl2/9M (red sector over If Panayias) and on Nisis Panayia Fl.WR.5slO/8M. The Ν entrance is lit: Fl.R.3s3M/Fl.G.3s3M and the bend in the channel Fl.R.2s3M. The Ν end of the quay is lit F.G.3M. The S entrance is lit: Fl.G.2s3M/F.R.2M, though the lights should not always be relied on.

Dangers

1. Care needs to be taken of Ifalos Panayias in the approach from the E.
2. Ferries and tripper boats are constantly churning in and out of the harbour. In the Ν entrance care must be taken of the blind bend in the channel where you cannot see what is coming the other way.
3. In the S entrance there are barely 2m depths in the middle and no room to manoeuvre so wait until the way is clear. On either side of the S channel it is shallow.

Mooring

Go stern or bows-to either side of the town quay leaving the ferry and tripper boat berths clear in the middle. In the summer the town quay is very crowded and the alternative is to berth on the quayed section in the Ν channel. The bottom is mud and generally good holding. Large yachts can anchor under the causeway between Nisis Áy Nikolaos and Nisis Panayia although the holding been reported to be suspect here.
Shelter Good shelter from the prevailing summer winds. Strong southerlies cause a surge on the town lay and a yacht may have to move to a berth in the N channel.
Note Crossed anchors are a fact of life with all the boats using Gaios and there is not a lot you can do about it except remain cool and use some muscle power in the morning when you leave.
Authorities Port police and customs.

Facilities

Water Water can be delivered by mini-tanker. With so much tourist infrastructure water is scarce on the island.

PÁRGA
BA 2402

Approach

Conspicuous From the W the fort at Kastelli in the hills NW of Párga is conspicuous and closer in the belfry on Ák Áy Spiridhonos will be seen. From the S the belfry, fort and the buildings of Párga village are conspicuous. The small white chapel on Nisidha Áy Nikólaos also stands out well.
By night The light on the fort at Páârga Fl(2)6s6M will be seen from the S but is obscured in the approach from the W. The small harbour in Órmos Valtou is not lit.
Dangers Care needs to be taken of the reef Voi Spiridhonia lying approximately 100m off Ák Áy Spiridhonos. In calm weather it is easily spotted, but with any whitecaps it can be difficult to pick out.

Mooring

Most yachts head for the small harbour on the W side of Órmos Valtou. Go stern or bows-to. In general it is better to go bows-to as rock ballasting projects out from the quay in places. Alternatively anchor S of the mole and take a line ashore or to the old mole. Difficult holding so ensure your anchor is well in. The new breakwater S of the old mole provides some shelter if you are tucked right under it with a line ashore - it is likely it will be extended some time in the future to provide additional berths for yachts. Although the wharf at Pârga village appears to be adequately protected a swell rolls around into here with the afternoon breeze and in southerlies it is untenable. In any case it is normally occupied by local ferries and tripper boats. Shelter In the harbour at Órmos Valtou is good.

Anchorage In the height of summer yachts tend to anchor off on the W side of Órmos Valtou. Try not to anchor off the section of beach further Ε used by the water-ski and paragliding boats. It is sometimes possible to anchor in the cove under Nisis Panayia. The best policy is to arrive in the early evening when the swimmers have gone home. Anchor fore and aft as there is little room to swing here.

Note Of late there have been numerous reports of theft from yachts here. Make sure you lock up well and put any loose items away.

Facilities

Water At the root of the mole in Valtou.
Provisions At the eastern end of the beach or in Párga itself.
Eating out Numerous tavernas and bars along the beach and in Párga. Other Water taxis run between Órmos Valtou and Párga town in summer. PO. Bank. ATM. Taxis. Hire cars and motor bikes. Ferry to Paxos

General

Párga has developed into a major resort with the consequence that development spreads all the way around Órmos Valtou and only stops just before the harbour. There are more tavernas and bars than you can shake a stick at and in the day the beach is packed to overflowing. On a yacht you are at least lucky to be just beyond all this in the little harbour.

The castle on the promontory between the two bays is of Norman origin (c.1337). Well defended to seaward and landward by the monolithic rock on which it sits, this castle has always been difficult to capture. The Venetians considered it 'the eye and ear of Corfu' and consequently the Parganiotes enjoyed special trade privileges with Venice. The notorious Ali Pasha attempted to capture the castle many times, finally succeeding in a roundabout way with the help of the English. In 1814, when the French held Párga, British agents managed to persuade the Parganiotes to overthrow the garrison and hand it over to the English. After holding Pârga for two years the English then sold it to AH Pasha to strengthen their claim with the Turks to the Ionian Islands. The inhabitants were evacuated to the islands, only returning generations later. Párga only became Greek in 1913.