Gulf of Corinth

Gulf of Corinth (Korinthiakos Kolpos) The Gulf of Corinth extends from Rion and Andirrion to the Corinth Canal. It is considerably indented on the Ν side with numerous natural bays and gulfs in which a yacht can find shelter. There are also man-made harbours on both the Ν and S sides of the gulf. Many yachts charge through the gulf intent on getting to or from the Aegean, and miss out on the delights of the places around the coast. You can usefully spend a couple of weeks dawdling around the gulf should you decide to take it easy and there are a number of sites ashore (Delphi and Corinth spring to mind) which are well worth a visit.

NÁVPAKTOS (Lepanto)

Approach

Conspicuous From the distance the castle walls on the hill above the town and the buildings of the town are conspicuous. Closing the town, the castellated walls of the harbour will be seen.
By night The entrance is lit Fl.G.2s3M. Note The medieval harbour is very small so a yacht should have everything ready for berthing before entering. A large yacht should not attempt to get in here as there simply isn't room.

Mooring

Go stern or bows-to on the S side of the harbour or off the fuel jetty or wherever there is room. Beware of floating lines from the local fishing boats. The bottom is soft mud, not always the best holding. The small harbour gets very crowded in July and August so you may not be able to find a berth - after all it doesn't take too many yachts to fill a harbour of this size. Crossed anchors are also something you can do little about given the difficulties of manoeuvring once inside and the lack of space.
Shelter Reasonable shelter from the prevailing wind although a prolonged westerly sets up a surge. Winds from the SW and SE funnelling into the bay cause a surge, though in the summer this is more uncomfortable than dangerous.
Anchorage If the harbour is impossibly full then you can anchor off the beach in settled weather. This is not the most comfortable place to be with the prevailing westerlies although they will usually die down at night. Large yachts (over c.lom) should anchor off anyway or they will simply block access to most parts of the miniature harbour. Off the beach the bottom is sand or mud, good holding.

Facilities

Water On the quay.
Fuel Close to the quay - a hose can be led down to the fuel quay.
Repairs Minor mechanical repairs. Hardware shops.
Provisions Good shopping for all provisions. Ice available.
Eating out Numerous tavernas around the harbour and in the town.
Other PO. OTE. ATM. Bank. Greek gas and Camping Gaz. Bus to Andirrion where you can get a ferry across to Rion and catch the bus to Athens or Patras.

General

The minute medieval harbour bordered by old plane trees and under the shadow of the Venetian castle (now a park) is a captivating place. It is a pity the same cannot be said for the reinforced concrete sprawl on either side of the old town. Nor is the harbour a quiet place - traffic rumbles and buzzes around the road by the harbour, the locals are an animated lot and it all goes on in the square by the harbour. Around the harbour some of the old houses have been turned into convivial cafés and restaurants. Take a wander around the Ε side of the harbour.
It is well worth a walk up to the castle to escape the hubbub. Nâvpaktos is well-watered and in the summer heat it is strange to hear water bubbling away when not so far away it is scarce. The town was known in medieval times as Lepanto and it was here that the Turks refitted before the disastrous (for them) Battle of Lepanto. The medieval harbour lis one of the best examples of its type in the Mediterranean and should not be missed.

Nisis Trizonia

Approach

From the distance the island is difficult to make out against the nearby hills of the mainland. From the W a villa on the saddle of Nisis Trizonia stands out well and several other villas on the S side will be seen. From the Ε an escarpment on Nisis Áy loánnis is conspicuous. Closer in the village on the mainland opposite the island will be seen, but the small hamlet on the island and the entrance to the bay are not visible until you are near the anchorage. By night With care a night approach is possible. The Ν entrance is lit F1.4s4M. The fish farm in the bay opposite the SE end of Trizónia is lit by bright arc lights. The marina is unlit.
Dangers If proceeding between Trizónia and the mainland coast care is needed of the reef running out from the island for around 300m off the Ν side of Trizónia. Keep closer to the mainland coast than to Trizónia.

Mooring

At present yachts go alongside in the marina. In the summer when it gets more crowded yachts should go stern or bows-to. Care is needed off the two jetties running out from the shore as it has been reported that there are large mooring chains running parallel to them ready to take mooring lines. If going alongside on the outside of the moles care is needed of ballasting and rubble near the mole although I found mostly 2·5-3·5m depths despite the rubble.
Shelter All round shelter in the marina. There are gusts down into the marina from the W-NW with the prevailing summer wind. Anchorage Anchor in the bay keeping clear of the entrance to the marina. The bottom is mud and weed - good holding once through the weed although it can be difficult to do this in places. Keep persisting. Good shelter although there are gusts into the bay from the W-NW. Note Work appears to have come to a halt on the marina, although in its present state it is perfectly usable.

Facilities

Services Water available from Christo on the Ν side of the marina near the hotel. You will have to be in a berth on the Ν side of the marina. Hotel Dryma behind the marina offers showers and laundry facilities, as does the YC (see below). Fuel Some distance from Glifadha, the village on the mainland opposite.
Repairs Christo in the house near the hotel can carry out gardiennage including engine and boat maintenance, and he has acquired a good reputation. He also has the metered water hose.
Provisions Minimarket in the village. Navpaktos is the nearest place for all provisions. Eating out Several tavernas in the village and a restaurant at the Hotel Dryma and at the YC. Other Caique ferry to the mainland opposite.

The Yacht Club Not really a yacht club as such but a convivial restaurant and bar. Also showers, laundry, book-swap library and they will hold mail. Reached by road from the ‘marina’ or take your dinghy across to a small wooden landing stage.
The Yacht Club, Trizónia Island, Gulf of Corinth,
33058 Doridos, Greece.
S 22660 71580. General

The land around the bay is green and lush - mostly vines and olives. The small fishing hamlet has changed little over the years despite the number of yachts using the sheltered bay. A few more villas have now been built on the island, but as yet it is still an out-of-the-way spot that has now attracted a surprising number of yachts for the winter.
Even if you do not eat ashore it is well worth your while to go ashore for an ouzo or brandy and coffee - sitting around the little square overlooking the small harbour you'll easily lose an evening.

GALAXIDHI

Imray-Tetra G13

Approach

The approach to the harbour should be made between Nisis Apsifiâ and Nisis Áy Yeóryios until past the stone beacon on the reef Ε of the entrance and then into the harbour as shown on the plan.
Conspicuous Once up to Ák Pounda, Nisis Apsifiá and Nisis Áy Yeóryios can be distinguished. Apsifiâ has a single tree on it and a white shed next to the light structure. Áy Yeóryios has a church on the S end and another on the NW end. On the headland sheltering Galaxidhi the buildings of the naval college are conspicuous. The beacon (roughly rectangular) marking the reef off the entrance to Galaxidhi is easily identified. Once up to Ay Yeóryios the buildings of Galaxidhi (the cathedral is conspicuous) will be seen.
By night There is a light on Nisis Apsifiâ F1.7s5M and a light off the W side of the entrance to the harbour (Fl.RG.l-5s3M 080°-R-216°-G-3470). A night entry is not recommended.

Dangers

1. Care needs to be taken of the reefs fringing Nisis Apsifiá and Nisis Áy Yeóryios - see plan.
2. 
   
3. Care needs to be taken of the reef off the Ε side of the entrance marked by a stone beacon. Although local boats pass between this reef and the coast, this passage is not recommended even with local knowledge.

Mooring

Go stern or bows-to the quay on the W. It is better to go bows-to as ballasting extends some distance under the water. The bottom is mud and weed, mediocre holding.
Shelter Good all-round shelter. NE winds send some swell in - more uncomfortable than dangerous. It has been reported that there can be a tidal surge similar to the marrobio experienced in some harbours on the S of Sicily, but I have yet to encounter any reliable reports of its occurrence here. Authorities Port police.

Facilities

Water On the quay. You need to find the 'waterman'.
Fuel Can be delivered by mini-tanker.
Repairs Limited mechanical repairs. Hardware shop.
Provisions Good shopping for most provisions.
Eating out Tavernas around the waterfront and others in the village. Pension Gannymede does an excellent luxury breakfast in the garden.
Other PO. OTE. ATM. Greek gas. Bus to Itéa and then on to Delphi. Hire cars. Taxi to Delphi.

General

From the distance the rocky islets and stony hills hide the tranquil narrow inlet of Galaxidhi harbour. Hemmed in by a pine-studded peninsula to the Ε and the town hunched on a rocky mound to the W, this harbour is one of the most, pleasing in the Gulf of Corinth. In the 18th and early 19th centuries it was a prosperous port until the Turks occupied the area and captured the fleet. Near the harbour there is an interesting small museum displaying curios including some fine figureheads from its heyday as a thriving shipping town.
Today it lies as quietly as it has done for over a century and offers shelter only to yachts. It has a modest amount of tourism and some fairly sophisticated restaurants and gift shops (with sophisticated prices) will be found on the waterfront. This is a useful safe harbour near Delphi, which can be reached by the local bus, hire car or by taxi.

DELPHI

Ancient Delphi is easily visited from Galaxidhi or Itéa and although acknowledged as one of the most spectacular and beautiful classical sites in Greece, it is for my taste, also spectacularly overcrowded in summer, when there are frequently twenty to thirty coaches lining the road. It is best visited in spring or autumn.
Delphi was regarded by the ancients as the centre of the world. Its spectacular site amidst ravines, rocky bluffs and sheer cliffs on the side of Mt Parnassos contributes for a large part to its air of mystery. It takes its name from Apollo Elphinos when the god was worshipped in the shape of a dolphin. As well as Apollo other gods were associated with Delphi, notably Dionysus and Athena. The Delphic oracle was famous throughout Greece - it is interesting to note that the interpretations were vague and often obscene, but had the reputation of being more truthful than elsewhere. Its fame diminished during Roman times.
The French school began excavating the site in 1892 and have continued to do much of the work. A museum houses most of the important finds.

Corinth Canal (Dhiórix Korinthou)

BA 1600 Imray-Tetra G13

The canal is 3-2 miles long, 25m (81ft) wide, the maximum permitted draught is 7m (23ft) and the limestone from which it is cut rises to 76m (250ft) above sea level at the highest point. The canal is closed on Tuesdays to repair the crumbling limestone sides and for dredging.
A current of 1-3 knots is stated to flow either way in the canal depending on the wind direction. Certainly I have been through when strong westerlies have been blowing for several days and there was at least a 2 knot current. If you happen to get stuck behind a large ship in the canal further complications can ensue from the wash produced by its propellers which create a washing machine effect behind it.
There are two hydraulic bridges across the canal near either end. The bridges are lowered down into the water and traffic lights indicate when to go or stop. When you are clear to transit the canal the bridges will be ordered to lower from the canal offices. The following signals concerning entry into the canal are displayed on a signal mast at either end of the canal.

By day..............................................By night .............................................................Signal
Blue flag......................................One white light................................................Entry permitted
Red flag.................................Two vertical white lights......................................Entry prohibited

The canal zone authorities use VHP Ch 11.
A yacht may have to wait up to three hours before entering the canal. Yachts normally go through at the end of the ship convoy heading in their direction. The paperwork and canal fees are done at Isthmia at the Aegean end of the canal. Moor alongside the quay on the S side of the canal. Large yachts may pay the pilot outside the canal - he will come alongside in a launch.
The ancients used to drag ships across the isthmus on a paved road (the dhiolkos), parts of which can still be seen on the Ν side. Octavian in pursuit of Antony after the Battle of Actium had his ships dragged across here. At various times the Greek and Roman rulers worked out schemes for a canal but Nero was the only one to start digging. Using 6,000 Jews, he didn't even get to the rock before insurrection in Gaul diverted his energies. The present canal was started by a French company and finished by the Greeks in 1893. It was enlarged after damage suffered in the Second World War. Three bridges, a railway bridge and two road bridges, cross it at the maximum height of the cut.
Caution Severe gusts blow off the surrounding high land at either end of the canal. They are particularly bad at the Aegean end with NE winds.

POSIDHONIA (Corinth Canal W end)

From the Gulf of Corinth the breakwaters protecting the W end of the canal are difficult to see. Closer in the canal office buildings for the W end and the signal mast will be seen. The entrance is lit Iso.R.2slOM/Iso.G.2slOM although the effective range seems much less.
When waiting to transit the canal the normal procedure is to potter around outside. This can be uncomfortable if westerlies are blowing strongly, but there are few alternatives. I have anchored inside the S breakwater, but the holding is bad here and the authorities frown on the practice. It is also possible to go alongside the very end of the Ν pier where there are just 2m depths at the end quickly becoming less.
Note When crossing between Posidhonia and Corinth Harbour, keep a reasonable distance off the shore as it is reported that shallows extend further than shown on the chart. A sort of semi-circle route out from the shore is best.

ISTHMIA (Corinth Canal Ε end)

In effect you head for the NW corner of Kenkhreon Kólpos. When closer in the tower of the canal office and the breakwater protecting the entrance will be seen. The entrance is lit Iso.G.2slOM/ Iso.R.2slOM.
Small to medium yachts proceed into the entrance and tie up alongside the quay on the S side. This is fendered with large rubber bumper rails, but the quay itself is quite high and the black rubber bumper fenders are pretty unforgiving to topsides, so you should hang out every fender you have. Large yachts (25m plus) should call up the control tower and request the pilot boat to come out so the paperwork can be completed. You can also arrange an agent in Piraeus to do the necessary paperwork and pay on account.
Once tied up, go to the office in the tower and fill in the requisite paperwork and pay the canal fees. You then hang around until you can transit the canal. If a large ship is transiting either way pay attention to your warps as the water pushed by large ships in the confines of the canal significantly adds and then removes a large mass of water as the ship passes. This can snap mooring lines, with dire consequences. It may be better, if a large ship is going to pass, to go outside the canal entrance and hang around until it is time for you to enter the canal.
The small harbour on the Ν side under the breakwater does not have berths for transiting yachts. If you do decide to berth here for any reason care is needed of the ballasting which extends underwater for a short distance.

CORINTH CANAL DUES

The Corinth Canal is probably one of the most expensive canals per mile in the world. Yachts are now charged on LOA. The charge is calculated using the following components;
Fixed dues
Passage dues based on LOA
VAT
In 2003 canal dues were as follows:
Up to 9 metres: €60
Each additional metre: €18
Plus VAT at 18%
Cost for a 12 metre yacht: € 134
Payment can be made in cash or credit cards (Mastercard or Visa) are now accepted.
On Sundays and holidays 30% is added and for night passages 25% is added. Yachts which attempt to alter their certificates or present photocopies will find themselves charged at a higher rate, which may explain some of the letters I get from irate owners complaining about the charges. It is difficult to predict what costs will be in advance due to variations in the percentage increase of canal fees by the authorities.
Canal office VHP Ch 11 Tel. 27410 37700.

Ancient Corinth

Ancient Corinth sits on a plateau behind modern Corinth, and the ruins of this infamous city deserve a visit. The ancient city commanded the passage of trade between the mainland and the Peloponnisos and across the isthmus between the Ionian and the Aegean. Consequently it was an important and rich city. The Corinthians were fine seamen and possessed a large fleet with which they founded and protected colonies in Corfu and Syracuse. Some believe the first trireme was built here. They paid particular attention to the gods of the sea, Poseidon and Palaimon. The latter was the protector of harbours and myth has it that he was originally Melikertes who was transported to Corinth on a dolphin.
The hard-living Corinthians were evidently hard­working as well. Their pottery was esteemed throughout the Mediterranean and from the 5th century BC the Corinthian style of architecture embodied in the Corinthian column became one of the most popular styles - continuing on through Byzantium and to the present day. From the 4th to the 2nd centuries BC Corinth earned a reputation for itself of a fast-living city where (in an age of loose living) the inhabitants were notorious for their vices. From this hedonistic age we get the term Corinthian, used in the early 19th century to describe a hard-living sportsman devoted to pugilism, horse racing and yachting! The term survives today as the name of various yacht clubs and football teams.