Rhodes (Nisos Rodhos)

The largest island of the Dodecanese, Rhodes lies at the southern end of the chain of islands stretching down the west coast of Asiatic Turkey. Its name is of uncertain origin but possibly comes from the Greek word for the rock-rose which grows all over the island. In antiquity it had many names: Stadia, referring to its ellipsoid shape; Ophioussa, from the many snakes on the island; Poeissia, referring to its fertility; Olyessa, because it is earthquake prone; and Makaria, calling it simply the blessed isle.
As the ancient name, Stadia, states, the island is roughly ellipsoid or diamond-shaped. A mountain range runs from Ν to S with the highest peak, Mt Ataviros (1,215m, 4009ft), situated in the middle of the west coast. Unlike many of the other islands of the group, Rhodes is fertile not only in the valleys and on the plains but also on the high hills. Pine, olive, orange and lemon, fig and pear trees grow well. Maquis and wild flowers (including the rock-rose) grow in the countryside, while hibiscus, bougainvillea and jasmine run riot over village houses. Butterflies seem to be everywhere - so much so that Rhodes has been called the butterfly island. In addition to butterflies, the fauna is said to include deer, foxes, hares, badgers, partridges, vultures, jackdaws, jays and the Rhodes dragon - a lizard growing as long as 50cm (14in) - though you are unlikely to find any of these around the crowded north end of the island.
This garden island with its dry hot summers and mild winters (the climate resembles that of Sicily) has been popular throughout history: smiled upon by the sun-god Helios; extravagantly praised by Strabo; beloved by Tiberius who deserted Capri for a time, bringing his entire retinue with him; the Knights of St John were reluctant to leave their castle even when surrounded by hostile neighbours; and the Italians, who occupied Rhodes in 1912 intent on creating another Capri. Today Rhodes is without doubt the most popular tourist island in Greece. Hotels stretch along the east and west coasts from Rhodes city where sun and sandy beaches create an irresistible lure for sun-starved northerners.
The significant history of Rhodes is neatly compacted into two periods: the story-book times of ancient Greece and the violent period of the Knights of St John. Moreover, such has been the influence of Rhodes on the surrounding islands that its history can to a large extent be read as the history of most of the Dodecanese.
The island has always been important as a trading centre between Asia and Africa and Greece and Italy. Homer mentions three cities on Rhodes: Lindos, with its natural harbour on the east; lalysos, in the northwest; and Kamiros, about 20 miles down the west coast from Ak Milon (Zonari). Rhodes, along with Kos, Knidos and Halicarnassus, monopolised trade in this southwest corner of the Aegean.
In 408 BC the three cities mentioned by Homer decided to pool their resources and found the city of Rhodes on its present site. Hippodamus of Miletus designed the new city and built a series of harbours on the eastern side of the low-lying peninsula on which the city was built. The new city and its splendid harbour complex swiftly eclipsed the other three cities to become the most important city and trading centre in the southwestern Aegean. The Rhodians built up their own fleet of merchant vessels to become a major sea power. And they managed all this without upsetting the major warring powers around them - in effect a little Switzerland growing ever more prosperous.
The Rhodians managed successfully to evade being caught up in the international politics of the time until the death of Alexander the Great, when the Mediterranean was plunged into chaos. Rhodes refused to help Antigonus invade Egypt (which was, after all, its major trading partner). Demetrius Polioketes, a would-be Alexander, enters the history books at this point. To teach the Rhodians a sharp lesson he assembled a large force and also the gargantuan siege machine for which he is famous -the Helepolis. The contraption was estimated to be nine storeys high, weighed perhaps 125 tons and rolled up to the city walls on giant oak wheels. It sprouted huge catapults, drawbridges which could be dropped down to release troops, a nest on top for archers, and was shielded against enemy arrows.
Around Rhodes today, piled in heaps or lying about the castle walls, you can see the heavy stone balls believed to be the missiles Demetrius flung at the city. He did a lot of damage, but at the end of a year he had still not beaten the stubborn Rhodians. He signed a treaty with them and ordered all his siege machinery to be sold and the money donated to the Rhodians for a statue to commemorate the great siege. Thus the statue of the sun-god Helios was born. Chares began the statue in 302 BC and twelve years later the Colossus of Rhodes was complete. Perhaps it did stand astride Mandràki harbour, as commentators say, and perhaps not. Wherever the precise site of the 35 metre high statue was, it became a landmark for all ships nearing the island until it was toppled by the earthquake of 227 BC.
Rhodes endured as an important economic and sea power until 43 BC when Cassius sacked the city and destroyed it. Rhodian marine law was universally admired, parts were absorbed into the Venetian sea code and its spirit is with us today. For centuries the city attracted artisans and artists. In Roman times Caesar, Brutus, Anthony, Cicero and Tiberius all studied in Rhodes. Pliny counted over 2,000 statues when he was there and yet today a mere handful remain, so complete was Cassius' sacking of the city.
Until 1309 Rhodes drifted with the mainstream of history: ruled by Byzantium; sacked by the Saracens; ruled by the Venetians and later by the Genoese who in 1306 gave shelter to the Knights of St John. In 1309 the refugees became the masters of Rhodes. They built the huge fortified castle that dominates the town today and acquired a fleet of fast galleys which harried Turkish merchant vessels up and down the coast. They expanded from Rhodes to Khâlki and Alimia, Simi and Tilos, Kos and Kalimnos, and the adjacent coast of Asia Minor. In all of these places the castles or the remains of castles built by the Knights can be seen today.
The huge fortifications of Rhodes withstood two great sieges - in 1444 from Egypt and in 1480 from the Turks. In 1522 Suleiman I assembled a force reckoned to number over 100,000 men against 650 Knights and 1,200 supporters. The defence of the Knights against such a force is one of history's great battles. They held out for five months before the Grand Master, Villiers de l'Isle Adam, capitulated on honorable terms. It is said that Suleiman, watching the Grand Master leave, remarked, 'It is not without some regret that I oblige this old Christian to leave his home.'
Rhodes remained under Ottoman rule until the Italians occupied it in 1912. Intent on recreating the glory of Rhodes, they set about restoring and tidying up the castle and the town. They have been much criticized for their restoration work, but I do not think it is overdone, and most of it gives a good feeling of what medieval fortifications were like. For the student of military warfare, Rhodes has probably the best preserved medieval fortifications in Greece. During the Second World War the island was occupied by the Germans and in 1947 it became Greek along with the rest of the Dodecanese.

RHODES HARBOUR - MANDRÁKI
ΒΑ 1532
Imray-Tetra G3, G35


Approach
Conspicuous From the W and Ν the city of Rhodes on a low-lying spit of land can be identified from a long way off. Large hotels line the beach on the W. From the S and Ε a chimney S of the town and the Ε mole of Rhodes Marina and Limin Akandia are conspicuous. The large ferries in Limin Emborikos also show up well. Mandráki basin, where a yacht should make for, is easily identified by the small fort with the lighthouse (Áyios Nikólaos), a cupola, the belfry, the market and the three windmills on the mole forming the Ε side of Mandráki. On either side of the entrance to Mandráki there is a tower with a bronze deer on top.
By night Use the light on Ak Milon Fl.WR.4s6/4M (red sector covers Ifalos Kolona over 286°-314°), Áy Nikolaos Fl(2)12sllM, the W breakwater head Fl.G.2s4M, Limin Emborikos Fl.R.2s4M, and the lights at the entrance to Mandráki Q.RG.3M, F.R and F.G.2M. Some of the lights are difficult to identify against the loom of the city lights. Approaching from the W the light at Rhodes airport (A1F1.WG) some 10 miles S of the city is easily picked up.

Dangers

1. Keep well off Ák Milon (Zonári) and the shoal water running Ν from it and the reef (Ifalos Kolona) extending Ν from the outer mole protecting the entrance to Mandráki.
2. 
   
3. Care should be taken when strong southerlies and easterlies are blowing as there is a disturbed swell at the entrance to Mandráki, although once inside the basin there are no problems.

Mooring Mandráki
The harbour is hopelessly crowded in the summer, with charter operators zealously guarding their berths. Mandráki is now designated as a marina, although apparently vacant berths do not necessarily translate to the automatic allocation of a berth. Yachts can also go on the pontoon inside the entrance on the W side of the harbour if there is room. There are a few laid moorings both here and in the 'marina', but crossed anchors and frayed tempers are more the order of the day in Mandráki. Try to arrive mid-week rather than at the weekend when charter companies are doing change-overs.
Limin Emborikós
Large yachts moor on the quay on the W side of Limin Emborikos. Call Al Yacht Agency for a berth. If there are vacant berths smaller yachts may be permitted to berth here, although it can be uncomfortable with a surge from the meltemi and wash from numerous cruise ships being manoeuvred into and out of berths on the other side of the harbour.
Rhodes Marina
Work is due to recommence on Rhodes Marina. A new consortium (including Al Yachting) has been formed to take over the completion and running of the marina. The southern end of the harbour has become something of a hydrofoil graveyard and will take some clearing up. Go stern or bows-to the quay on the Ε side or if there is room anchor off in the centre. No doubt when work begins again and the place is cleaned up then yachts will not be permitted until the marina proper is open. The planned layout of the pontoons is shown in the plan. Projected Data c.300 berths. All services including water and electricity, shower and toilet blocks, fuel quay and yacht services
Shelter Good all-round shelter in Mandráki. Numerous boats winter afloat here.
Note Fouled anchors are a common occurrence in Mandráki simply because there are so many yachts.
A large mooring chain lying approximately 30m out from the quay is also easily fouled.
Authorities Marina/yacht charter staff. A port of entry: port police, customs and immigration authorities. Customs and immigration are at the root of the Ε mole in Mandrâki and the port police are on the W side. Charge band 2.
Facilities
Services Water and electricity on the quay. You buy pre-paid cards in the office for water and electricity. Showers and toilets. Fuel A mini-tanker delivers to the quay.
Repairs Nereus Boatyard 60-ton travel-hoist. The channel to the hoist basin is normally dredged to 2-2·5m. Go first to the boatyard where the leading marks for the channel will be described. Reservations are advisable if you want to leave your boat here for the winter. All mechanical repairs. Most engine spares can be obtained within a few days from Piraeus. Wood and GRP repairs. Light engineering work including stainless steel work carried out. Electrical and some electronic repairs. Sail repairs. Life raft service. Good hardware and tool shops. Several chandlers.
A1 Yacht Trade Consortium SA is a long-established company (formerly Yacht Agency Rhodes) who have a well-stocked chandlery, including many imported items and a good stock of books and charts. They can arrange berths in Mandráki or Emborikos and charge a handling fee for doing so. Large yachts will need to book ahead to get a berth. They are also brokers and charter agents. The staff are knowledgeable and helpful and can usually obtain most bits of gear. Mail can be sent to them and will be held for collection.
Al Yacht Trade Consortium SA,
PO Box 393, Byronos 1 & Kanada St,
85 100 Rhodes, Greece
Tel. 22410 22927
Fax 22410 23393
Email rhodes@alyachting.com
VHP Ch 73 (call sign Al Yachting) The office is on the waterfront between Nereus boatyard and the commercial port.
Provisions Good shopping in the new town around the harbour and in the white octagonal market. Ice available.
Eating out Good tavernas · ask around for recommendations. Le Bistrot, Araliki and Sea Star, all in the old town, have been recommended. Other PO. OTE. Banks. ATMs. Greek gas and Camping Gaz. Turkish baths in the old town. Hire cars, motorbikes and bicycles. Bus service to the important villages. Organised excursions to Lindos, the Valley of the Butterflies, Kamiros etc. Daily ferries to Piraeus via Crete or the northern Cyclades. Daily ferries to Marmaris in Turkey in the summer. European and internal flights.
General
Rhodes city - you either love it or hate it. After the sleepy peace of many of the other islands in this area, Rhodes town fairly hums and bustles as only the most important tourist town in Greece can. But it is not overpowering, and once you are accustomed to the fact that you are back in a busy city the place does grow on you.
Rhodes city consists of two distinct parts: the old city surrounded by the walls built by the Knights and the new town largely built by the Italians during their occupation of the island. Much of the old city was restored by the Italians and although they have been criticized for producing 'Hollywood' castles and towers, with the passing of time the reconstruction has weathered and blended into the original medieval stonework. In the new town the buildings lining the waterfront were also largely built by the Italians in a monumental style to designs by Florestano di Fausto. The other notable buildings mostly date from the Turkish occupation.
Mandrâki was probably the harbour used by the Knights to keep their swift galleys in, although some believe the basin now called Emborikos was the galley harbour and Mandráki was occupied only by small boatbuilders. The word Mandrâki is the diminutive of mandra meaning 'a sheep fold' and is used in many other places to describe a small enclosed harbour.
Here in ancient times the Colossus of Rhodes may have stood - the bronze statue of Helios the sun-god, one of the seven wonders of the world (despite the postcards which show him looking more like a ridiculous jolly green giant). Although the popular opinion is that the statue did not stand astride the harbour entrance, I agree with Ernie Bradford that there is no reason why this should not have been so: 'My opinion is that, as is so often the case, the ancien story is true; the statue of the Sun God literally be-straddled the narrow entrance to the galley harbour. It a small boat harbour, and one must bear in mind that ύ ships of the ancients were, by modern standards, only small boats. Most of them, no doubt, lowered their masts when entering harbour under oars - just as the galleys often did in the time of the knights. In any case, a statue with a total height of 105 feet would have given plenty of clearance between its legs even if their masts were raised.' Ernie Bradford The Greek Islands.
The statue was destroyed by an earthquake in 227 BC and 80 years later sold as scrap.
Beyond the old and new city stand the blank reinforced concrete hotels and suburbs of the holiday town relieved only by the abundance of oleander, bougainvillea and hibiscus. On Ak Zonari stands the Hydrobiological Institute, housing an interesting collection of preserved and live marine animals caught in local waters.
RHODES BOATYARD
A separate project S of Rhodes Marina for a huge yard with protected basin. 550 and 200-ton travel-hoists. Slipway. 100,000sq.m of hardstanding. This is a government project which will be put out to private tender when complete. No completion date is available.
NOTE
When on passage between Rhodes and Lindos there are fierce gusts off the high land when the meltemi is blowing strongly. If you are heading to Rhodes from Lindos it is best to leave very early in the morning when the meltemi sometimes dies off for a while. Between Rhodes city and Lindos there are several bays and coves that can be used in settled weather.
AK LADHIKO ANCHORAGE
A small bay under Ák Ladhiko. Care is needed of shoal water in the entrance (2m) and off the Ε entrance. The best policy is to stay closer to the W entrance point. Anchor in 4-5m on sand and rock, reasonable holding once you find a good sandy patch. Good shelter from the meltemi. Tavernas ashore.
FALIRAKI
A small fishing harbour and notorious tourist resort lying to the Ν of Órmos Ladhiko. The entrance is rock bound from some distance out and should only be attempted in calm weather with someone in the bow to con you in. An approach on a course of 225° to the Ν side of the harbour is recommended.

LINDOS (Limin, Lindhou)
BA 1532

Approach
The castle and the town are conspicuous. By night there are no lights although on a clear night entry is possible with care.
Mooring
Anchor outside the buoyed area near the pier or in the Ν bay. The bottom is sand with some rock -good holding although a trip line is recommended in the Ν bay where there are some large boulders. Thebay is open to the Ε and southerlies send in a swell. With the meltemi there are fierce gusts down into the bay so make sure your anchor is well in before leaving a yacht unattended.
Facilities
Water Limited from local sources.
Provisions Most provisions can be found.
Eating out Numerous excellent if somewhat expensive tavernas.
Other PO. OTE. Banks. ATM. Hire cars, motorbikes and bicycles. Buses to Rhodes.
General
Early in the morning or late in the afternoon, Lindos, with its small winding streets between medieval houses and the toy castle perched on a rock summit as if about to topple into the bay, is uniquely beautiful. In the heat of the day coaches and ferries transport hundreds of tourists from Rhodes - the narrow streets are packed tight, the beach resembles something from Cannes or Nice and the bay buzzes with speedboats towing inflatable rafts, but by dusk they have all departed. Lindos, commanding the superb natural harbour, was the principal city of the island before the foundation of Rhodes in about 408 BC. The acropolis within the medieval castle affords an all-round view over land and sea - before 1000 hours or after 1600 hours there are few people about. In the village the old houses with black and white pebble mosaic courtyards and staircases are a legacy from the prosperous Middle Ages.