Northern Cyclades

Nisos Kéa (Zéa, Tzia)

A craggy and mountainous island lying a little over 12 miles east of Âk Sounion in the approaches to the Kolpos Petalion. A high mountain ridge runs down the east coast with the summit, Mt. Ayias Ilias (561m/l,840ft), near the east coast 4 miles south of the northern extremity of Kéa. Most of the inhabitants live in the chora (Kéa) or at Ay Nikolaos. The island is mostly barren although there are patches of cultivated and wooded ground near the coast.

In ancient times the island was considerably more important than it is now. It had four cities and produced the lyric poets Simonides and Bacchlides and the physician Erasistratos. A few ruins of the cities remain and there is a large lion with a face like a big pussy cat carved out of a rock face (about 6m/20ft long) to the east of the chora. The ancient Kéans were apparently noted for their modesty and temperance. Today the population is much diminished (about 2,000), as the young leave the island to find work in Athens.

LIMIN ÁYIOS NIKÓLAOU

(Aghiou Nicolaou, Livádhi, Vourkari)
BA 1538
Imray-Tetra G31

Approach

Conspicuous The village or chora (Kéa) on the hill behind the harbour is visible from the N. The entrance is not easy to spot from the distance but the general location on the NW end of the island is obvious. From the W the cluster of houses on the slopes behind Vourkari will be seen. Closer in the chapel and light (on top) on the N side and a churchon the S side of the entrance are conspicuous.
By night Use the lights on either side of the entrance: N side Fl(2)10sl5M/S side Fl.l-5s5M. The mole at Korissia is lit: Fl.G.3s3M. Note With the meltemi there are strong gusts off the high land in the vicinity of the harbour.

Mooring

There are two possibilities:

1. Órmos Livádhi The S arm of the bay. Moor stern or bows-to the quay at Korissia keeping clear of the ferry berth behind the mole. Reasonable shelter from the meltemi. Alternatively anchor off in the bay in calm weather. The bottom is mud and weed, not everywhere good holding.
   
2. Vourkari The NE arm of the bay. Anchor in the bay or go stern or bows-to the quay in the space indicated on the plan. The bottom comes up quickly just before the quay and consequently it is best to go bows-to if possible. On either side of this space it is too shallow off the quay. The bottom drops off quickly here (over 10m depths 30m out from the quay) so make sure you have an adequate length of chain or line to let go. The bottom is mud and weed and not everywhere good holding. It is reported there is a cable fouling the bottom about 30m off the quay. As the meltemi blows straight on to the quay ensure your anchor is holding before tying up to the quay. If you are anchoring off there are laid moorings off the Ε side of the bay, but you can anchor amongst the moored boats with care. Alternatively anchor outside the area with laid moorings in 8-12m.

In the summer there are a lot of yachts using this bay.

Nisos Kithnos

(Kythnos, Thermia) A barren rocky island lying a little over 6 miles SE of Kéa. The hump of the island is highest in the middle where the summit reaches 294m (965ft). Despite its modest height, the island is so folded and steep-to that it gives the impression of being more savage and higher from seawards than figures suggest. The population mostly lives in the chora (Kithnos) on the hill above Ormos Apokriosis and in Merikha. The island has some tourist trade in the summer, but on the whole is little touched by tourism.

KOLÓNA, APOKRIOSIS AND FIKIADHA

Approach

These bays are situated about one mile to the N of Merikha where the huddle of houses around the harbour is conspicuous. Care should be taken of the underwater rocks on the S side of the entrance to Órmos Apokriosis and on the NE side of the entrance to Fikiadha.
By night There are no lights.
Dangers With the meltemi there are strong gusts into the approaches and the bays.

Mooring

Órmos Kolona (Sand Bar Bay) Anchor in the NE corner in 3-6m on sand. In the summer the bay is popular so it is common practice to take a long line ashore to the N side. The bottom is sand and good holding. Good shelter from the meltemi. Open W.
Órmos Fikiadha Anchor in 3-5m on sand and weed, good holding once the anchor is through the weed. Good shelter from the meltemi although there are gusts into the bay. Open S for a limited sector.
Órmos Apokriosis Anchor in 5-10m on sand and weed. You can take a long line ashore to the N side for added security. Good shelter from the meltemi. Open SW-W.

Facilities

Taverna at Apokriosis and Fikiadha.

General

The bays provide good shelter in pleasant surroundings. Development has slowly been extending northwards from Merikha, but has not really affected these bays yet. On Nisis Áy Louka, the islet connected to Kithnos by the sand bar, are a few ancient remains including traces of walls, a temple and agora . On the Ν side of Órmos Kolona it is reported there is a hot spring.

Nisos Siros (Syros, Syra)

A hilly, mostly barren island. The north is rugged and mostly uninhabited while the south has gentler slopes and is cultivated near the coast. Most of the population live in Ermoupolis, the port and also the nominal capital of all the Cyclades.

Nothing much remains of ancient Siros which was sited where Ermoupolis now stands. In the Middle Ages the inhabitants moved inland until the Venetians, ever mindful of the potential of the harbour and the strategic position of Siros along the Aegean trade route, occupied the island and restored its prosperity. In the 17th century the island came under the protection of the French and so escaped Turkish occupation. Siros took no part in the Greek War of Independence, but did take refugees from Psarâ and Khios.
In the steam age Siros became the principal port in the Aegean and a major coal-bunkering station for ships on passage through the Cyclades. Its importance declined when oil replaced coal and ships could do longer passages without the need to refuel.

The twin villages on the two hills behind the harbour reflect the island's history. Old Siros became the Venetian and Genoese Roman Catholic village and the descendants remain predominantly Roman Catholic. The Psariote and Khiot refugees established Ermoúpolis (Hermoupolis: named after Hermes, the god of traders) which is the Greek Orthodox quarter. Ermoupolis has spilled over from its original site and now spreads around the waterfront. The port is still a mercantile centre and a major ferry port. The island is also famous for the production of loukoumi or Turkish Delight which here is excellent and not to be confused with some of the sickly-sweet imitations made elsewhere.

ERMOUPOLIS (Limin Sirou)

BA 1538
Imray-Tetra G31

Approach

Conspicuous The twin villages on the hill above the harbour are easily seen from the distance. The most conspicuous object is the lighthouse on Nisis Gâïdharos which is easily identified from a considerable distance off. Closer in a large cathedral on the slopes behind the town and the breakwaters are conspicuous.
By night Use the light on Nisis Aspronisi Fl(2)12s7M and Nisis Gâïdharos F1.6sl2M. The entrance to the harbour is lit: Ák Kondoyiannis F1.3s5M; the Ν breakwater head Fl.G.3s6M and S breakwater Fl.R.3s6M and F.Y. Ifalos Karfomeni is marked by a light buoy Q.R though it is not to be relied upon.

Danger

1. Care is needed of Ifalos Karfomeni, a reef and shoal water on the SW side of the harbour. It is marked by a light buoy Q.R(occas). If a yacht keeps close to the end of the Ν breakwater where there are good depths, the bunkering station and reef are easily avoided.
   
2. Care is needed of the large ferries constantly churning in and out of the harbour.

Mooring

Go stern or bows-to the quay on the NE side of the harbour. Use the shorelines supplied and keep well pulled off the quay. No laid moorings but the bottom is mud - good holding.
Shelter Good shelter from the meltemi although there are gusts and a surge develops making it uncomfortable, as does the wash from ferries. With SE winds a swell rolls in making the harbour very uncomfortable and possibly dangerous for small yachts.
Note The harbour is very smelly in places from sewage emptying into it.
Authorities A port of entry: customs, port police and immigration authorities.
For Marina Sirou and the fishing harbour on the W side of the harbour see below.

Facilities

Services Water and electricity points on the quay.
Fuel Near the W quay. Tel. 22810 23784 or call on VHP Ch 8 for a mini-tanker.
Repairs There are several yards here which can haul yachts.
Lefteris Akilas 65-ton hydraulic lift. 4m depths at slipway.
Tel. 22810 23682 Fax 22810 23445.
Vangelis Tzortis Sledge and slipway. Used to hauling yachts.Tel. 22810 87086 Fax 22810 86000. The commercial dry-dock is now open again and can take very large craft. Mechanical and engineering repairs. Chandlers near the yacht yards. Sail repairs can be carried out - go to the cheese shop at Chiou 28!
Provisions Good shopping for all provisions nearby. Near the W end of the town quay there is a market street leading up into town with all manner of butchers, fruit and veg shops, cheese shops and mini-markets. Sirou sausages are excellent.
Eating out Good tavernas around the waterfront and others in the town.
Other PO. OTE. Banks. ATMs. Greek gas and Camping Gaz. Hospital. Hire cars and motorbikes.
Buses to the principal villages. Ferries to Piraeus, nearby Cyclades, Crete, and Sâmos.

General

Ermoúpolis is still the capital of the Cyclades and although it may not have the commercial power it once did, it still bustles and buzzes with the self importance and assurance of a cultural and commercial hub. It is still the largest town and it feels like it.

The buildings around the harbour reflect the past power and glory. An century square paved with marble and shaded by trees and complete with bandstand. Impressive public buildings, including an opera house modelled on La Scala. Elegant 19th-century mansions with wrought iron balconies, and an extra-large Catholic cathedral. Ermoupolis repays a wander around the back streets where neo­classical buildings and ship-owners mansions are impressive although crumbling here and there. The quay is alive all day and night with a wide choice of bars and cafés to while away the time watching the ferries churn in and out of the harbour. In the back streets and around the west quay are some old-fashioned ouzeries and cafés while on the east quay and the east side of the old town are some traditional tavernas. It all comes as a bit of a shock after the quieter places, but the hustle and bustle is genuine and Ermoupolis grows on you as something more essential and Greek than other tourist-orientated places.

MARINA SIROU

The basic structure of the marina is now complete, although it is not yet open to yachts. Construction work continues on shore.

Approach

Once into Limin Sirou the Ν mole of the marina will be seen when past the bunkering station.
By night The bunkering station is lit F.Y.12m3M. A buoy marking If. Karfomeni is lit Q.R. The marina entrance is not lit.

Mooring

When the marina opens berth stern or bows-to where directed. Laid moorings to be installed. Manoeuvring inside the marina in larger yachts could be difficult with any wind.

Facilities

Water and electricity points to be installed. Shower and toilet block planned.

General

When complete Marina Sirou will offer all facilities, but it is sadly some distance away from the charms of Ermoupolis on the other side of the harbour. Estimated completion date is 2004-2005.

ERMOÚPOLIS FISHING HARBOUR

The fishing harbour is complete and also full. Yachts can berth alongside the outer wall where shown and shelter here is good although there is some wash from craft entering and leaving Ermoúpolis. You are not too far away from town although you do need to dodge the traffic speeding in and out of town along the waterfront road. It is a convenient place to stop at if enquiring about hauling in the yards mentioned above

FINIRAS (Foinikas, Foinikou)

BA 1538

A sheltered bay on the SW coast of Siros.

Approach

Conspicuous The villas around the slopes of Ormos Finikou will be seen and closer in the light structure on Psathonisi can be identified. Psathonisi is low-lying and difficult to make out from the distance. The rough stone breakwater built out from the point to Vrak Dhimitra on the W side of Ormos Foinikou will also be seen.
By night Use the light on Psathonisi F1.2s5M and the light on Vrak Dhimitra Fl.R.l-5s4M vis only over 198°-085°. The end of the mole at Posidhonia is lit F.G. The entrance to the harbour is lit Fl.G.4s5M/Fl.R.4s5M.
Dangers There are strong gusts into the bay with the meltemi. With southerlies a confused sea builds up in the approaches to the bay.

Mooring

Go stern or bows-to the S side of the outer mole at Finikas. Ther,e are laid moorings tailed to a small buoy that you need to pick up on the outer dogleg end of the mole. On the inner section you will need to use your own anchor although there are plans to lay moorings here as well. Yachts can also berth inside the basin if there is room. Go stern or bows-to the mole or alongside the inner mole.
Shelter With the meltemi blowing the best place to be is on the outside of the mole where the meltemi is blowing you off the quay. In unsettled weather and with southerlies berth in the basin. With strong southerlies the outside berths are untenable and you need to be inside the basin where there is a surge, but it is tenable.
Dangers There have been reports that the wash from high speed ferries affect the berths on the outside of the harbour. Keep pulled well off.
Authorities Harbour attendant. Charge band 2.
Anchorage With the meltemi you can anchor off in the bay. The beach area has a line of small buoys marking out the swimming area, but there is plenty of room left to anchor. The bottom is sand and weed with some rocks, good holding once the anchor is in.
Note The area S of the basin has a number of laid moorings. Care is needed when navigating in the area and also if you intend to anchor here.

Facilities

Services Water on the quay. You may be able to get electricity connected. A shower and toilet block although it is not always the most sanitary.
Fuel Can be delivered by mini-tanker ("Ξ 281858).
Repairs A number of yacht service companies can be called out for repairs. There is a notice board at the harbour with telephone numbers. Small chandlers around the waterfront.
Provisions Most provisions can be found.
Eating out Taverna at the harbour and others around the wateú.

General

The bay and the beach are most attractive so it is not surprising that a number of hotels and villas have been built around the bay. Nearly everyone who visits here likes the place and it is well worth stopping here with the bonus in the meltemi season of excellent shelter.

Nisos Mikonos (Mykonos)

A rocky barren island which is mostly low-lying. Mt Ay Ilias rises to 364m (1,194ft) in the NW and Mt Anomeritis rises to 351m (1,152ft) in the SE. The population mostly lives in Port Mikonos or in Tourliani in the middle of the island. The town of Mikonos, the tourist Mecca of Greece, is the real attraction because, apart from fine sandy beaches, the island has scenically little else. Note Between Naxos and Mikonos a strong southerly current has been reported after a prolonged meltemi.

MIKONOS MARINA (Tourlos)

Note All boats must now berth in the marina and not in Mikonos old harbour. You will be turned away from the old harbour if you try to enter.

Approach

The harbour lies just over a mile Ν of the old harbour. From the W a large hotel looking a bit like the radiator grille of an American car is conspicuous. Normally the most conspicuous objects will be the cruise ships tied alongside the outside quay of the marina. Yachts should make for the Ε basin.
By night The W basin is lit at the entrance Fl.G.3s3M. The Ε basin is lit on the end of the mole Fl.R.3s3M. The central quay area is spotlit. Dangers The meltemi gusts down into the bay making manoeuvring difficult although, unlike the old harbour, there is plenty of room here.

Mooring

Berth stern or bows-to or alongside on the S side of the basin. As work progresses pontoons and laid moorings will be installed.
Shelter Good all-round shelter although the meltemi gusts into the harbour.
Authorities Port police.
Note At the moment no charge is made for using the harbour, but this will change when work is more advanced and services are installed.

Facilities

Services None at the time of writing. It is planned to install water and electricity points and a shower and toilet block. You may be able to get a water tanker to deliver.
Fuel Can be delivered by mini-tanker to the quay.
Repairs Limited mechanical repairs only. Limited chandlers in Mikonos town.
Provisions Good shopping for all provisions in Mikonos town.Eating out Wide choice of tavernas and restaurants in Mikonos town.
Other PO. OTE. Banks. ATMs. Hospital. Greek Gas and Camping Gaz. Hire cars and motorbikes on the N side of the marina. Ferries to Piraeus, Siros, Paros and Rhodes. Internal and European flights.

General

Mikonos Marina The marina is a dusty deserted place at present, a sort of boon-docks miles away from the glitz of Mikonos town. That said, I think I speak for many, especially a lot of charter skippers pressured by clients to come here, when I say that the shelter in the marina is wonderful compared to the perils the old harbour used to present. At Mikonos old harbour you gritted your teeth as you came into it to berth between ferries, the howling meltemi, whistling port police and other boatowners swearing at you as anchors became crossed and topsides were gashed. It was a nightmare. The best thing to do at the marina is hire a motorbike or car from the agency on the Ν side and use that to zip in and out of town.
Mikonos town Mikonos has almost passed into the English language to describe a certain type of touristy island in the way that Benidorm describes the most down-market of resorts. To 'mikonos' means to take the most wonderful place and completely change the values and worth of the community so that while physically little appears to have changed, the place is soulless and possesses little that was valuable in the old community. So it is that in the summer the locals rub shoulders with the yacht set, the jet set, backpackers, artists - real and pseudo, nudists and recently the gay set as well as plain ordinary holidaymakers. Mikonos is bright and breezy by day and by night the hum of the bars and throb of discos into the wee hours is all part of the scene.
The town is a dazzling white cluster of cubes stacked around a natural amphitheatre above the harbour. Mikonos epitomizes the Greek flair for choosing a superb site and tailoring a natural architecture to it. The houses, the churches (there are said to be 365 of them, a bit of an exaggeration), and the narrow winding alleys appear to be a naturally evolved form sculpted from the rocks of the island itself. There may be hordes of tourists from all over the world, and more photographs of Mikonos than of any other town in Greece, films and documentaries may have featured it, yet Mikonos retains that wonderful appearance and certain architectural something that so many flock to see. For the yachtsman the cosmopolitan flavour of Mikonos may be a refreshing contrast to the simpler pleasures of the other islands.

ÓRMOS MIKONOU

In light southerlies or easterlies it is possible to anchor off Mikonos town. Anchor off in either of the two coves S of the old harbour. The bottom comes up fairly quickly in both bays so you will need to anchor in 7-10 m. In southerlies you can anchor in Órmos Korfos. Anchor in 4-6m on mud and weed.

ÓRMOS ORNOS

The bay on the S side of Mikonos immediately Ε of Ák Alogomandra. Anchor in 5-10 m at the head of the bay. The bottom is sand and weed - poor holding in places. Good shelter from the meltemi although there are strong gusts into the bay. Open to the S.
There is a hotel on the beach and several tavernas. Supermarket nearby. It is two miles to Mikinos town, buses every hour. Just to the Ε of Órmos there are a number of small bays sheltered from the meltemi. They have sandy beaches and tavernas nearby.

ÓRMOS KALO LIVADHI

An open bay on the W side of Ák Makrokefalis. Anchor off the beach in 3-6m. Reasonable shelter from the meltemi. A taverna opens in the summer. Inland there is at last some agriculture and cultivated fields.

ÓRMOS ÁYIOS ANNAS (Baraga)

Lies immediately Ε of Ák Makrokefalos. Anchor in 3-6m. The bottom is sand and weed. Good shelter from the meltemi. Open S. A taverna opens in the summer. Some of these beaches are unofficially 'no clothes' beaches and some are the preserve of men only, who may take exception to being invaded from the sea. Mikonos after all is an island where reputedly anything goes, and outside town you are on the fringe of 'anything goes'. Avert your eyes and have another drink

ÓRMOS KALAFATIS

A bight offering reasonable protection from the meltemi although completely open to the S and E. It lies immediately Ε of Órmos Ay Annas and Ák Tarsanas. Care must be taken of a reef on the W side of the bight. Anchor off the Ν end of the beach in 3-4m off the hotel complex. Taverna and café ashore.

PANORMOS

The large bay on the Ν side of Mikonos. The meltemi blows straight down into the bay so most of it is a lee shore during the summer. On the W side of the bay at Ây Sostis there is a bight where you can get some shelter from the meltemi. Care is needed of Vrak. Moles, a group of rocks and a reef which should be left to starboard before turning up into Áy Sostis.
With southerlies the bay affords good shelter and you can anchor at Áy Sostis or at the head of the bay.
Tavernas at Áy Sostis and Ftelia at the head of the bay. The bay is popular with windsurfers who come here for the wind and sea pushed into the bay by the meltemi.

Ancient Delos

Delos was once the political and religious centre of the ancient world. Legend has it that Apollo was born here and Artemis on nearby Rinia. The Delos oracle was consulted before major decisions and its fame was second only to that of Delphi. How did Delos become the centre of the ancient world? The most succinct answer is provided by Ernie Bradford: 'Delos, the hub around which the Cyclades (Kukloi - rings) radiate, was formed by nature to be the focal point of a seaman's world. If one is tempted to ask why so small an island, without any natural resources, ever became what it did, then the answer can be given by any sailor. Delos is the last, and best, anchorage between Europe and Asia. To the east it is shielded by Mykonos, to the north by Tinos, and to the west by Rheneia. Looking at a chart, it is easy to see how the direct sea route between the Gulf of Nauplia (with Argos at its head) flows straight across the latitude of 37°10' north of Pâtmos and Sâmos. Exactly in the centre of this trading route lies Delos. At the same time, it is almost in the centre of the trading route between the Dardanelles and Crete. Religious centres may sometimes, as at Rome or Lourdes, attract trade and commerce. But more often one will find that where the trade is, there are also temples. Merchants, then as now, are eager to purchase security in both worlds.'
Ernie Bradford The Greek Islands

In those days the ancient harbour was larger and better protected than it is today. The breakwater was some 165m long and the harbour extended south for half a mile and was divided by moles into five basins. Yet despite Ernie Bradford's praise for the natural attributes of Delos, I cannot help thinking there are other better natural harbours nearby. Ormos Nàoussa on Pâros or Ormos Dhespotico, for instance, are better protected and more accessible than Delos. In any case, for whatever reasons, the ancients settled on Delos and transformed this rocky little island into the centre of the world.

In 700 BC the island was under the protection of Naxos and the centre of the Ionian League of islands. Athens soon entered the league and before long was commanding Delian affairs. It was purified in 543 BC by Peristratos and thereafter the island was not to be defiled by human birth or death. The dying and any women nearing childbirth were taken across to nearby Rinia. The island was subsequently purified on several other occasions, presumably because someone had a heart attack or some similar fairly instant demise and died before they could be whisked off to Rinia.

After the defeat of the Persians, the first great period of prosperity for Delos began. In Macedonian times it enjoyed privileges akin to those of a 'free port' and its wealth and power were immense. By 200 BC the first Romans came to Delos and although the Athenians remained, the power soon shifted to Rome. Around 80 BC it was sacked and although it was rebuilt, its power was on the wane. A wall was built around it, but by AD 3 the island was finished. In that year it was put up for sale, but there were no takers.

The remaining ruins and the site should not be missed. The site has been likened to Pompeii, not for any architectural similarity, but for the completeness of the picture of ancient life that can be gleaned from it. Many of the ruins have been vandalised by past invaders and collectors of antiquities and of course by the Greeks themselves who have carted off the conveniently-hewn stone to build their houses on Mikonos, but much remains: the five lean lions guarding the sacred lake; the temple of Apollo in the great square of Apollo; the theatre; the bright mosaics of dolphins, panthers, birds, fruit and flowers; and the remains of what was the busiest harbour in antiquity.