Middle Cyclades

Nisos Sérifos (Seriphos)

A dome-like island with the white houses of the chora on a conical hill SE of the summit of Mt Troullos (585m/l,919ft). The island appears barren from seaward but at Livâdhi it is green and wooded around the shore, and inland from the chora there are several green valleys in startling contrast to the burnt brown mountain sides. There are a number of iron ore mines at Mégalo Khorio on the west coast of the island and at Koutala on the south, but there is little active mining today. Livâdhi has a modest tourist trade in the summer, but for the most part the island is populated by the old (particularly noticeable in the chord) as the young have deserted the island for Athens.

LIVÁDHI (Livadhiou)

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Imray-Tetra G33

Approach

Conspicuous Coasting around the S coast the lighthouse on Ák Spathi is conspicuous. From the Ν and Ε Nisis Vous can be recognised and closer in the white houses of the chora on the hill above the harbour are easily seen. Once at the entrance to Ormos Livadhiou the approach is straightforward.
By night From the S use the light on Ák Kiklops Fl(2)14s9M and Ák Spathi Fl(3)30sl9M. The extremity of the breakwater is lit Fl.R.2s3M. The end of the yacht jetty is lit 2F.R(vert), but should not be relied on. From the Ν a night approach can be difficult, especially if visibility is not good. There are no useful lights and Nisis Vous is not lit - if coming from the Saronic the approach around the W and S side of the island is safer, if slightly longer.
Dangers With the meltemi there can be strong gusts off the lee side of the island and in the immediate approaches to Livâdhi.

Mooring

Anchor in the bay or go stern or bows-to the jetty off the village on the SE side of the bay. In the summer when the meltemi is blowing the S side of the jetty is preferable. On the Ν side you will need a good anchor and all your chain as well as a bit of nerve when the meltemi gusts down into the bay. The bottom is sand and weed and not everywhere the best holding.
Note Works in progress widening the S quay.
Shelter Good shelter from the meltemi although there are gusts into the bay. With strong SE winds a swell works around into the bay although it is still tenable. In the summer the harbour is often crowded with yachts.
Authorities Port police.
Anchorage Anchor where convenient in the bay. The bottom is sand and weed and it can be difficult to get the anchor dug in. There is really not much you can do except persevere and let out as much chain as possible. Some yachts anchor and take a long line ashore across the beach to a tree on the Ν side of the bay, but the port police will sometimes object.

Facilities

Water On the jetty. Fuel A mini-tanker can deliver to the quay Tel. 22810 51512.
Provisions Most provisions can be obtained at Livádhi. Ice from a mini-market nearby.
Eating out Good tavernas in the village and around the beach.
Other PO and OTE at the chora. Exchange facilities. Greek gas. Bus to the chora. Hire motorbikes. Ferry to Milos and Piraeus.

General

The nearly landlocked bay is fringed by tamarisk trees providing welcome shade from the sun, and the white houses of the chora on the hill above, like icing on a bun, are like a cliché of received ideas of the Cyclades. The view from the chora down onto the bay and over the sea and islands beyond is worth the trip, and the bus to the chora leaves from the root of the yacht mole. The chora remains much as it always was, but the settlement around the bay has acquired the usual trappings for the summer tourist trade including highly amplified disco music which, in this otherwise tranquil spot, pierces the night­time air with an unnatural cacophony.

ÓRMOS KOUTALA

An open bay on the S side of Sérifos offering good shelter from the meltemi. Anchor in either of the two coves at the head of the bay. In the NE cove anchor in 3-5m on a sandy bottom. In the NW cove care must be taken of a foul area where large mooring chains have been laid. Anchor where shown in 6-10 m on a sandy bottom. Good shelter from the meltemi although there are strong gusts into the bay. On either side of the bay are the remains of iron ore mines and jetties and the concentration of ore is reported to cause local magnetic anomalies. Taverna. A number of villas have been built around the shores.

MEGA LIVADHI

An inlet NE of Ák Kiklops. It is reported to offer good shelter from the meltemi.

NISÎS SERIFOPOULA

A barren uninhabited island lying 4'/2 miles NE of Sérifos.

Nisos Sifnos

The high bold island lying 7 miles SE of Sérifos across the often windy Sifnos Channel. The island is hilly throughout, rising near the centre to Mt Áyios Ilias (694m/2,277ft). The west coast is barren and burnt rock, but on the east side of the island, where most of the population live, it is greener and cultivated in places. Most people live in the capital, Apollonia, on a hill inland.

In ancient times the inhabitants were vilified for their greed and deceit. On one occasion the Sifniotes offered a gilt egg at Delphi instead of the customary gold one and Apollo in revenge destroyed the gold mines which had formerly earned a great deal of revenue for the island. On the east coast the decaying medieval village of Kástro is a delightful place surrounded by a wall into which two and three-storey houses have been built. The village and former capital looks down onto Órmos Kástro and across to Andiparos and Páros.
Today the beaches on the SE coast of the island are popular and a number of small hotels have been built around the coast.

Note Vrakhos Tsoukala lies 0-5M NNW of Ák Filippos on the Ν tip of Sifnos. The rock extends only 1m above the surface but can be clearly seen in calm weather.

AYIOS YEORYIOS

A narrow inlet on the NW tip of the island. It provides good shelter from the meltemi, and indeed from all but W winds. There is a quay on the SW side where yachts can go stern or bows-to taking care of underwater rubble off the quay. There is also a quay on the NE side where there may be a space. A local tripper boat also uses the quay. There are 8-10m depths at the dogleg and 3-4m in the middle of the inlet with 2m depths until quite close to the edges. The head of the inlet is shallow.
Tavernas and a ceramics workshop ashore. At one time the last hand-formed giant amphora-like pots were made here.

VOURLITHA

Lies between North Bay and Áyios Yeoryios. It has been recommended as an anchorage, but I find it a bleak desolate spot affording little shelter, certainly not as good as that offered by nearby anchorages.

NORTH BAY

Just Ν of Kamáres there is a small bay affording some shelter from the meltemi. Cliffs surround the bay except where two deep gullies descend into the bay. Anchor in 4-5m between the gullies. The bottom is sand and weed, not everywhere good holding. No facilities.

KAMARES

BA 1538

Approach

Conspicuous It is difficult to see where the entrance is to the bay - vessels appear to pop out of a slit in the cliffs. The light structure on the Ν side of the entrance is conspicuous. Once near the entrance the buildings of the town and the outer mole can be seen.
By night Use the light on Ák Kokkála Fl(2)10s9M. The breakwater is lit on its extremity: Fl.G. l-5s3M.
Dangers It is advisable to take down your sails before entering the bay as with the meltemi there are strong gusts from all directions at the entrance and inside the bay.

Mooring

Go alongside or stern or bows-to the inside of the mole. Ferries now berth on the outside of the mole. Alternatively anchor at the head of the bay. The bottom is hard sand and weed with some rocks - fair holding only.
Shelter Good shelter from the meltemi although there are gusts. With W winds a swell rolls into the bay.
Authorities Port police and customs.

Facilities

Water On the quay.
Fuel Can be delivered by mini-tanker to the quay.
Provisions Most provisions although supplies are much dependent on the ferries.
Eating out Good tavernas on the waterfront and around the beach. Other Bank, ATM. Motorbike and car hire. A regular bus runs to Apollonia, the island capital, where there are a PO and OTE. Ferries to Milos and Piraeus.

General

Kamáres is the ferry port for Sifnos and the setting between the high cliffs and hills is spectacular. During the summer it is a bustling little resort town, and a good base for a trip to Apollonia and Kâstro.

ÓRMOS VATHI

A landlocked bay affording the best all-round shelter on Sifnos. The entrance is somewhat difficult to identify until you get there, when the cliffs on either side open up to an amphitheatre of a bay. There is a light structure on the S side of the entrance F1.2s7M. Anchor in the Ν of the bay in 3-4m on the gently shelving bottom - sand and weed, patchy holding in places. Off the chapel there is a section of quay with 2-2·5m depths off it where a few boats can go stern or bows-to with care. There are a also number of coves on the S side where a yacht can anchor. There are strong gusts from the meltemi into the bay, but no sea enters.
Water near the church. Tavernas ashore. The surroundings here are wonderful, the water a translucent turquoise, and there are several tavernas on the beach for a run ashore.

Andiparos (Anti-Páros)

The island of Andiparos lies close off the SW side of Pâros, separated by a narrow shallow channel. It is low-lying (299m/981ft at the summit in the middle) and barren. The village of Andiparos lies on the east coast near the narrowest part of the channel. Near the south end of the channel there is a deep cave containing a small chapel and spectacular stalactites and stalagmites. Excursions from Andiparos village and Paroikia by tripper boat.
The two islands to the south of Andiparos, Nisis Dhespotico and Nisis Strongilo, are barren and uninhabited.

NISIS DHESPOTICO

On the S side of this island there is a deserted bay offering good shelter from the meltemi. Open only to the S.

ORMOS DHESPOTICO

The large bay between Nisis Dhespotico and Andiparos. It is protected on the Ν and Ε by Andiparos and on the S and W by Nisis Dhespotico and the islet of Tsimindri in the NW. The channel on the Ν side of Nisis Tsimindri has less than one metre depths. The channel on the S side of Tsimindri has reported 2m depths in the fairway. It should be attempted in calm weather only with someone up front conning you through, and is not one for the faint-hearted.
Anchor in 2-4m where convenient on the Ν side. The bottom is sand and weed - good holding. In the 16th and 17th centuries the bay was a laying-up port for pirate galleys. The recent construction of a number of roads has opened up the area to

STENON ANDIPAROU (Anti-Páros Channel)

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Imray-Tetra G33

The narrow channel should only be attempted by day with due care and attention. Remmatonisi and the coast of Pâros are fringed with above and below-water rocks and with the meltemi there are strong gusts down the channel raising a short disturbed sea. A deep-draught yacht should not attempt the channel and small to medium-sized yachts should do so with someone up front conning you through and one eye on the depth-sounder. A yacht attempting the passage for the first time should do so in calm weather if possible when the reefs fringing the passage are easily seen. With the mehemi, identifying the green of the safe passage and the brown of rocks in the underwater mosaic becomes more difficult.
The channel on the W side of Remmatonisi can also be used by shallow-draught yachts with due care and attention although there are less depths than on the Ε side.

Note Recent charts show the deeper passage to be on the W side of Remmatonisi, but in my experience the passage on the Ε side is better. Recently least depths of 3-8m were reported in the W Channel. If anyone out there wants to survey either passage again in calm weather, please let me know the results.

ANDIPAROS

In the cove off the village on the W side of Andiparos channel a yacht can find some shelter from the mehemi. There is only a limited amount of space here. Try for a berth at the Ν pier. Spaces here are normally reserved for local boats and you should not occupy the ferry berth as ferries run frequently from Pountas on the other side of the channel. You can try anchoring off on the Ν side of the bay keeping clear of the piers although most of the bay is shallow. Anchor in 2-2-5m on sand and weed, good holding once the anchor is in. Reasonable shelter from the mehemi although gusts blow in from the channel.
Several tavernas on the waterfront and limited provisions can be found in the village.
Andiparos has been much developed in recent years and there are now numerous hotels and the accompanying bars and tavernas. Once you Penetrate the concrete overcoat around the old village it reveals itself to be a wonderful fortified little town. The fortified wall that surrounds the village was built by Loredano in the mid-15th century to protect the population from pirate raids. Around the southern end of the channel there are numerous enchanting coves to be explored in calm weather. The shallow water and sandy bottom produce those wonderful blues and greens so often reproduced on postcards.

POUNDHA

37°02'·3Ν 25°06'-OE

A small port on the Paros side of the channel for the ferries to Andiparos. There are l-5-2m depths off the pier but there is really no room here for a yacht.

Páros

A large oval island which is essentially one mountain with two peaks: Mt Áyios Ilias (771m/2,530ft) to the NW and Mt Karamboli (747m/2,450ft) to the SE. The land slopes down evenly from the two peaks to the sea. The land is mostly barren and burnt rock with few trees. The port and capital is Paroikia on the NW coast.
The island was colonised early on by the lonians from Asia Minor. In the 7th century BC the Parians sent a party to colonise Thâsos. Archilochus, the lyric satirist credited with inventing Iambic verse, was born on Pâros and accompanied the colonizing party to Thâsos. Ernie Bradford relates some amusing details about the poet: he was thrown out of Sparta for his 'cowardice and licentious character' and when fighting the Thracians admitted on one occasion to throwing away his shield and running away. Unfortunately this likeable muse was killed whilst fighting the neighbouring Naxians. During the Persian invasions Pâros sided with the Persians and with their defeat was consequently subdued and became subject to Athens. In the Middle Ages the island was colonised by the Venetians until falling to the Turks in 1537.
In ancient times Parian marble was famous. The marble was called Lychnites - won by lamplight - as it was mined underground in tunnels. Because the marble was difficult to mine, the mines were abandoned after classical times and were last used in 1844 when marble was required for Napoleon's tomb. The mines and tunnels can still be seen today. Parian wine was also famous in antiquity and today the red wine made on the island is passably palatable. Pâros is a popular tourist island, Paroikia fairly bulges at the seams in summer, and consequently facilities are well developed.

PAROIKIA

BA 1539

Approach

Conspicuous In the approaches to Paroikia there are a number of islands and reefs encircling the bay. From the Ν these are: Portes, two in number and looking like a pair of bookends; Petrokáravo, an almost submerged rock difficult to identify in rough seas; Vouves, low with a reef off the NE end and a reef with 3m over it 0·2 miles to the SW; Nisidhes Ay Spiridhonos, high and jagged (with a white chapel on one) except for the easternmost islet which is low; and Mavro Tourlos off the N end of Nisis Kavouras, high and jagged. Further into the bay, Kaki Skâla and Peponas are low-lying.
The white houses of Paroikiâ are easily seen once into the bay. A white church with a blue cupola is conspicuous on Ák Áy Fokas. The harbour off Paroikiâ is easily identified when close in. By night Use the light on Portes Fl(2) 10s7M and on Âk Ây Fokas F1.4s6M. Two pillar buoys Q.G/Q.R mark the deep water channel into Limin Paroikiâ. Street lights illuminate the ferry quay.

Dangers

1. Care is needed of the reef and above-water rock just N of Nisidhes Áy Spiridhonos and of the shoal water just N of Vouves in the approaches to Órmos Paroikiás.
2. Care must be taken of the reef and shoal water extending out from Ák Áy Fokas. There are depths of 3m or less some 300m S of the cape.
3. Care is needed of a reef running out from the coast on the S side of the entrance to Órmos Paroikiâs.
4. There is an extensive shallow rock shelf on the Ε side of Âk Krios. An old mole now underwater runs out from the N side of the bay for 250m between the more easterly of the two houses with white arches (conspic.) in a roughly SE direction. Depths over the submerged mole are less than 2m and in places only just 1m over.
5. The light structure on Ifalos Paroikiá has been removed and the reef levelled. Two pillar buoys now show the deep water channel into the harbour.

Note On 26 September 2000 the ferry Samina Express hit the Portes rocks in the approaches to Paroikiâ. The ship sank in 40 metres in the vicinity of the rocks at 37°05'N 25°07'E. Over 80 people drowned in the worst maritime disaster in Greece for 35 years. Rob and Di Brown who have lived on Paros for 31 years make the following observations: 'It is a matter of observation that a sustained meltemi gale sets up a current that can exceed 2 knots going south around the Portes rocks and down the Antiparos channel. This was almost certainly the direct cause of the sinking of the Samina. (It is commonly believed on Paros that the ship was on a compass autopilot course, which would normally have carried it nearly 1/3 of a mile further north. My brother-in-law was swept close to the Portes himself three hours before the accident.) The rescue at night from the sea in a F8 gale in the no-go area itself of 400 of the 500 or so on board is little short of miraculous to those who know the area.
Except for a few fishermen, almost all local boats treat the sea between the Portes rocks and the Áy Spiridhones islets as a 'no-go' area. It is simply too easy to go wrong even in half-metre waves. The unmarked Vouves reef is awash in calm weather, and lost in white horses in any sea. The outliers from the Áy Spiridhones islets are underwater and run a long way north and also east towards Kaki Skala. There are two safe routes in and out of Paroikiá, used by the ferries: firstly passing Ν of Portes and keeping at least ¼ mile offshore and S of Áy Fokas headland; secondly passing about 300m Ν of Peponas and Kaki Skala (both easily visible by day), then keeping to the channel S of the Áy Spiridhones islets and Ν of the Mavros and Kokkinos Tourlos pillars.'

Mooring

Berth stern or bows-to in the inner harbour or in calm weather off the outside of the mole. The bottom is mud and weed, mostly good holding.
Shelter Excellent shelter inside the harbour. If the inner harbour is crowded and the meltemi makes berthing on the outside of the moles impossible, it is best to anchor in one of the bays to the Ν of the harbour.
Note Works are in progress to the W of the ferry quay.
Authorities Port police and customs.
Anchorage A yacht can anchor in either of the two bays on the Ν side of Ormos Paroikiâs. The bay in the NE affords the best shelter from the meltemi but you need to be careful of the rock shelf off the shore and the sunken mole running for 250 metres out from the shore mentioned in 'Dangers' above. Anchor in 4-6m on sand, mud and weed, good holding once through the weed. This anchorage is untenable in southerlies.

Facilities

Water On the quay once the 'water man' is located.
Fuel On the outskirts of town. A mini-tanker can deliver to the harbour.
Repairs Yacht service agency. Call Afros Yacht
Service on VHP Ch 73 or Tel. 22840 23625. Mechanical repairs. Sailmaker. Chandlers. General hardware.
Provisions Good shopping for all provisions in the town. Ice available.
Eating out Good tavernas of all types. I favour some of the local tavernas in the streets behind the harbour, but there are all sorts of other tavernas in town.
Other PO. OTE. Banks. ATMs. Greek gas and Camping Gaz. Hire cars, motorbikes and bicycles. Buses to the other villages on the island. Ferries to Piraeus, Rhodes, Iraklion and nearby Cyclades islands.

General

Built on a gentle slope beside the sea with steep slopes behind, Paroikiâ is typically Cycladic -houses, shops, churches are dazzling white cubes with bougainvillea and wisteria providing splashes of natural colour. The old quarter around the 13th-century kastro is an intriguing place full of narrow winding alleys and archways, stone houses and shops with wooden balconies.
Paroikiá possesses the finest church in the Aegean, the Katapoliani (Ekatontepiliani). The name is said to mean 'the church of the 100 doors', but more probably means simply 'below the town'. The church is in fact three churches under one roof and it is well worth a visit for the beautiful interior - a mixture of the original and some recent renovation in neo-Byzantine style. On 15 August pilgrims converge on the church although the celebrations cannot compete with the Tiniot festival. Near the church the archaeological museum houses some interesting finds including a slab of the Parian Chronicle recording Greek history from pre-Homeric times and some sculptures in Parian marble.
The harbour is busy in the summer with ferries constantly coming and going bringing throngs of holidaymakers to the main port. The town resounds to the babble of different languages, the entreaties of waiters wanting your custom, and the click of camera shutters, and no wonder - some of the streets ending literally at the sea on the W of the town rival those in Mikonos for wonderful Cycladic architecture.

NAOUSA

BA 1539

Approach

This large much-indented bay lies on the Ν end of Páros between Ák Korakas and the islet of Gaϊouronisi.
Conspicuous The white lighthouse on Ák Korakas is conspicuous and from the entrance to the bay the power station buildings on the S side of Órmos Langeri, the white houses of Nâousa, and a large church with a red cupola behind the village, are conspicuous.
By night A night approach is not recommended. In good visibility use the light on Ák Korakas LF1.12sl4M and the lights at the entrance to Náousa harbour Fl.R.l-5s3M/Fl.G.1·5s3M.
Dangers Care is needed of the above and below water rocks fringing the islets and shores of the large bay.

Mooring

There are numerous anchorages around the bay.

1. Órmos Langeri Care is needed of the reef in the W entrance to the bay midway between Mavronisi and Ák Kamina. A bearing of 099° on the chapel on the shore leads safely into here and conversely, a back-bearing of 279° leads safely out. Anchor at the Ν end where convenient in 4-10m on mud, sand, and weed, good holding. Good shelter from the meltemi tucked into the Ν end. Yachts can also anchor at the S end of the bay in calm weather or southerlies. The S end is somewhat spoiled by the large power station there.
   
2. Órmos Áy loannou Care is needed of the reef running out from the chapel on the W. Anchor where convenient at the Ν end in 3-10 m. The bottom is mud, sand and weed, good holding. Good shelter from the meltemi. A small chapel in the NW corner of the bay is conspicuous and nearby there is a small boatyard. This anchorage is idyllic: sun-baked rock eroded into wonderful shapes, clear turquoise water, a small white chapel perched on the rock near the water, even the boatyard with bright caίques hauled out fits into the scene, so consequently it is popular in the summer. Taverna ashore. A local tripper boat operates a service on the half hour to Nâousa until 1800 in the summer.
   Note The beaches around here are popular for nude swimming and sun-bathing. That so, it should always be remembered that in the vicinity of a church or chapel it is frowned upon. As the sign at the chapel here puts it: 'These grounds are holly - plese do not swim in the nude' (sic).
   
3. Órmos Plastira In calm weather anchor where convenient. With the meltemi some shelter can be found anchored in 3-4m under Nisis Áy Kali.
   
4. Naousa Most of the space in the harbour is taken up with local boats and tripper boats, although if you can find a berth inside then this is a good option. Yachts now go on the outside of the W mole leaving the striped area in the middle free for the ferry. There are mostly l-5-3m depths off the quay although care is needed of underwater ballasting in places. Good holding and reasonable shelter from the meltemi.
   In calm weather you can use the bay on the Ε side of the fort, although care is needed of a mooring chain lying approximately W-E in the bay. Yachts also anchor off just W of the harbour in 4-10 m on sand and weed, good holding.
   The meltemi doesn't normally blow home here although at times when it is blowing strongly the anchorage off here is not the best and you are better off moving elsewhere in the bay.

Authorities Port police at Nâousa.

Facilities

Water On the quay.
Fuel Can be delivered by mini-tanker to the harbour.
Repairs Minor repairs at Nâousa. Yachts are hauled at the yard in Órmos Áy loannou using a cradle and slipway. It is a bit isolated but has the advantage that you can wander down to the water and have a swim.
Provisions Most provisions can be found at Nâousa.
Eating out Good tavernas at Nâousa.
Other PO. OTE. Bank. Greek gas. Hire motorbikes and bicycles. Bus to Paroikiâ.

General

The bay is a much indented amoeboid shape of sun­baked rock enclosing clear blue and turquoise water. Much of the rock has been sculpted into weird and wonderful shapes that give the bay a desolate feel. Although popular in the summer, there is nearly always somewhere to tuck yourself into away from the others. Out of season it is positively lonely.
Nâousa was a small fishing village that has grown into a large straggling tourist resort. The tavernas and bars clustered around the edge of the inner basin provide a pleasant spot to while away an evening. A windsurfing school operates from a hotel on the Ε side of the bay.

Note There are plans to build a marina immediately W of Nâousa harbour utilising the bight in the coast here. At the time of writing work had not started and there was some uncertainty over when or if work would begin.

Nisoi Koufonisia

Two islands about one mile NE of Skhinousa: Lower (Kato) Koufonisia is the southwestern island while Upper (Epano) Koufonisia lies to the NE. There are three anchorages on Upper Koufonisia:

1. A bay on the NE tip of the island provides some shelter from the meltemi although a swell rolls in. Open to the E. Anchor in 3-5m. Sandy bottom. Deserted.
   
2. Koufonisia village. Anchor in the bay in 3-5m on a sandy bottom. Reasonable shelter from the meltemi but there is always a residual swell with the meltemi which causes yachts at anchor to roll horribly. A breakwater and quay have been built on the W side of the bay for the ferry. When the ferry is not in here a yacht can go stern or bows-to, but the swell causes awful snatching at the shore lines and it is not a comfortable place to be. Open S and E. Some provisions and tavernas ashore. A quaint OTE in the bottom of a village house.
   
3. Parianos A small harbour on the SW side of Epano Koufonisia. A mole closes off part of the inlet with 5-6m depths in the entrance and 3m depths in the middle. The end of the mole is lit Fl.R.3s3M. A number of fishing boats are kept here on permanent moorings and the bottom is littered with permanent moorings. Anchor with a trip-line and you may also be able to pick up a mooring if one is free. It is possible to go bows-to the quay in a few places, but care is needed of rock ballasting along the quay and permanent moorings off it. Good shelter from the meltemi although there are gusts. The bay is a pleasant 20 minute stroll from the village. The fishing harbour has a bleak but beautiful aspect to it -and the water is clean enough to swim in.

Nisos Amorgos

The easternmost of the Cyclades apart from the small islands of Kinaros and Levithia. It is mountainous throughout, dropping sheer into the sea in many places. Mt Krikelos is 821m (2,693ft) high at the NE end; Mt Âyios Ilias is 698m (2,290ft) high in the middle; and Mt Korax (Raven) is 607m (1,991ft) high at the SW end. The cliffs are spectacular, especially at the NE end and on the south coast where they drop straight down into the sea for 300m or so, giving you the impression that the island was simply sliced off here like a wedge of cheese. Most of the island is burnt barren rock though inland the valleys are cultivated in places.
In the past the islanders had a reputation as wreckers and pirates. The island was colonised in classical times but appears to have been of minor importance. The poet Simonedes settled here and became known as Simonedes of Amorgos. The island is off the main tourist route and mostly visited by backpackers. There is excellent fishing around the coast and a school of dolphins will often be seen in the vicinity of the island.
For film buffs the island is known as the setting for Luc Besson's film Le Grand Bleu (The Big Blue) and numerous locations around the coast were used during filming. In the rocky cove Ε of Ormos Kalotaritissa at the SW end of the island is the wrecked coaster Olympia which figures prominently in the film.

Note When the meltemi is blowing there are severe gusts off the S side of Amorgos and big seas on both the NW and SE sides.

KATÁPOLA (Vathi)

Approach

Conspicuous The chora and a line of windmills on the hill above the harbour are conspicuous from seaward. Houses straggle around the head of the bay with a monastery and church with a blue cupola conspicuous in the middle. Katâpola lies in the SE corner of the bay.
By night Use the light on Ak Ayios Ilias: Fl(2)10sl2M. Apart from this light there are no others, but with good visibility it is possible to make a night entrance.
Dangers With the meltemi there are strong gusts into the bay though these lift at Katâpola.

Mooring

Go stern or bows-to the quay under the lee of the ferry quay. The bottom is mostly sand and weed with some rocks - good holding once the anchor bites.
Shelter The shelter under the lee of the ferry quay is better than it appears even with the meltemi funnelling in.
Note Sewage emptying into the harbour makes it smelly in the summer heat.
Authorities Port police.
Anchorage A yacht can anchor in several places in the bay.

1. In the cove immediately W of Katâpola. Shelter in here is better than it looks as there is something of a lee from W-NW winds.
2. In calm weather anchor off the hamlet in the NE corner of the bay. Care needs to be taken of laid moorings on the bottom. Good tavernas ashore.
3. In the cove W of the NE hamlet. Shelter from the meltemi is not the best here.

Note There are plans to build a marina at Xilokeratidi opposite Katâpola itself. At the time of writing no plans were available and work has yet to begin.

Facilities

Services Water and electricity on the quay.
Fuel Can be delivered by mini-tanker to the quay. Alternatively the nearest petrol station is a few kilometres away on the road to the chora.
Provisions Most provisions can be obtained.
Eating out Pleasant tavernas and bars on the waterfront. The Corner taverna has excellent Greek cuisine that I couldn't fault during an enforced stay with a Force 9 gale here.
Other PO. OTE. Bank. Greek gas. Hire motorbikes. Ferries to Naxos, Piraeus and Rhodes.

General

Órmos Katápola is a magnificent deep bay with steep cliffs dropping sheer into the sea. The small village of Katâpola is a pleasant relaxed spot and the harbour quite secure. Few tourists come here although recently there has been an influx of backpackers, some of whom have not helped the foreigner's image in Amorgos.
The chora above is typically Cycladic. It is on the way to the monastery of the Panayia of the Presentation which occupies a spectacular site on a cliff suspended between the sky and the sea below. The best way to get there is either to hire a motorbike or alternatively to get the local bus to the chora and then on to a stop nearby - the driver is used to dropping people off at the nearest stop to the monastery. It is then a hot steep climb (remember to take a bottle of water) to the monastery itself which, even in this secular age, manages to instill a feeling of reverence and monastic quiet into the most hardened of sceptics.