(Gulf of Hydra)

NISIDHES TSELEVINIA

These two islands, Spathi and Skilli, lie to the S of Poros just before you 'turn the corner' to head into Kolpos Idhras (the Hydra Gulf). The passage between the two islands is deep and clear of dangers in the fairway. However, great care is needed of the numerous ferries and hydrofoils which charge through the narrow channel at full speed (the ferries come through at 15-20 knots, the hydrofoil at around 30 knots).

The passage between Nisis Spathi and the Péloponnèse is obstructed by a reef just below the surface. Off the SW tip of Spathi there is a small islet and behind it a secluded anchorage.

NISIS SOUPIA

An islet lying close off the coast about 1½ miles W of Nisis Spathi. The islet looks like a crouching frog when viewed from the E. Anchor behind the islet where convenient. Depths shallow up on the NE side of the islet. Good shelter in settled weather. The bottom is covered in thick weed and is poor holding in parts. Mulberry trees around the shore and a villa development above.

HYDRA BEACH HOTEL

37°24'·8Ν 23°20'·4Ε

This large hotel complex lies approximately 8½ miles W of Nisis Spathi. It is easily identified from seaward. There is a small boat harbour attached to the complex, but it is usually crowded with caique ferries and water taxis. Small yachts may find a berth here, but the entrance is barely 20m wide and the basin itself is very small. There are 3·5m depths in the entrance and 2-3·5m depths on the W side of the basin. Bar and tavernas ashore, although the complex has a run-down feel to it.

ERMIONI (Hermioni, Kastri)

Approach

Conspicuous The village of Ermioni saddling the headland is easily identified from seaward. The end of the headland is wooded (mostly conifers).
By night Use the light on Âk Kastri Fl.l-5s4M and on the mole head F.R.2M. The breakwater head is lit Fl.G.2s3M.
Dangers Care needs to be taken of the remains of the ancient mole on the N side of the headland.

Mooring

Go stern or bows-to behind the outer mole if there is room. Larger yachts can anchor in the bay. The harbour can get crowded in the summer. The bottom is mud and weed with some rocks - poor holding in patches.
Shelter Good all-round shelter behind the mole. One or two yachts have wintered afloat here. The stone breakwater running out from the shore on the W provides additional shelter from northerlies though not from northeasterlies which can blow fiercely off the hills.
Anchorage Yachts can anchor in the Ν part of the bay. Anchor in 2-4m and try to get as far Ν as you can without going aground, where there is better shelter from the swell pushed into the bay. If you go aground it is mostly mud. There is a fair amount of weed so make sure the anchor is well in. Authorities Port police.

Ermioni South Quay

On the S side of the peninsula there is a protruding quayed area with 2-5m depths off it. The bottom drops off quickly to 10m and more. The rest of the quayed area is bordered by underwater rubble. The S quay is entirely open to southerlies and easterlies so does not provide all-round shelter. However, with offshore winds it is a delightful spot and comparatively peaceful in the summer compared with the other side of the headland.

Facilities

Water On the quay.
Fuel In the town. Delivered by mini-tanker.
Repairs Limited mechanical repairs. Hardware shop.
Provisions Good shopping for most provisions. Ice available.
Eating out Tavernas on the waterfront and on the S side of the headland.
Other PO. OTE. Bank. Greek gas and Camping Gaz. Car and motorbike hire. Hydrofoils to Piraeus and the islands in the Saronic Gulf.

General

The village has been relatively untouched by tourism although there are now several small hotels of what has been called the 'pour and fill' variety. Walk over the saddle of the town to the S side of the headland where things are peaceful and you can sit in a bar on the waterfront with wonderful views over the water.

In ancient times Ermioni was of some importance. The remains of an ancient mole and parts of a wall can be seen on the Ν side of Ak Kastri. Pausanias records that a festival in honour of Poseidon was held here and depending on your interpretation of the ancient Greek, either swimming or boat races were held - it is possible Ermioni was the site of the first small boat regatta in recorded history.

Nisos Idhra (Hydra)

The long narrow island lying parallel to the Peloponnisos coast and bordering the south side of Kolpos Idhras. It is mountainous throughout, rising to the summit, Mt Eros (590m/1935ft), near the centre. It is everywhere arid and sterile and devoid of vegetation.

Idhra appears not to have been of any importance in ancient times. It was during the centuries of Turkish rule that it prospered and built up a large mercantile marine fleet. It paid no taxes but supplied sailors for the Turkish fleet. In 1821 it was the first of the islands to pledge its sizeable fleet (some 150 ships) to the Greek cause. Admiral Miaoulis, admiral of the Greek fleet, was an Hydriot as were many of the other captains and sailors who distinguished themselves against the Turks. It has been said that but for the Hydriot fleet and sailors, the War of Independence would not have been won.

The Hydriot fleet never recovered from the war effort and Idhra declined in importance to become a backwater of the Saronic until it was discovered by discerning travellers. It became a fashionable resort, and in the early days of tourism the rich and famous holidayed in Idhra, though now it is visited by larger numbers ferried in daily from Piraeus.

LIMIN IDHRAS (Hydra, Ydra)

Approach

Conspicuous A white monastery on the hill above the harbour is conspicuous from some distance off. Closer in the small town of Îdhra built around the natural amphitheatre above the harbour will be seen.
By night Use the light on the Ε side Fl.R.l-5s3M and the lights at the entrance F.R.2M/F.G.2M.
Dangers Care is needed of the numerous craft, ferries and hydrofoils and pleasure craft, entering and leaving the narrow entrance, often at speed.

Mooring

Go stern or bows-to the town quay or the Ν mole. The latter has underwater ballasting projecting a short distance out in places so care is needed when berthing there. If possible go on the Ν mole in case N-NW winds blow. In the summer the harbour is very crowded and it is not unusual for yachts to be berthed three out from the quay. Crossed anchors are a fact of life here and there is little you can do about it. The bottom is mud and weed with some rocks - poor holding in places.
In settled weather very large yachts anchor outside the harbour with a long line to the mole.
Shelter With strong N-NW winds a dangerous surge develops and the only safe place is on the Ν mole.
Authorities Port police and customs.

Facilities

Water On the quay.
Provisions Good shopping for most provisions. Ice from the market.
Eating out Tavernas on the waterfront and in the town. I suggest you go into the town away from the overpriced tavernas and bars on the waterfront.
Other PO. OTE. Bank. ATM. Greek gas and Camping Gaz. Ferries to Piraeus and the other islands in the Saronic Gulf.

General

Among the buildings of the town there are many large stately houses built in the time when Idhra was a prosperous town and possessed a large mercantile fleet. In the 1950s and 60s Îdhra became a fashionable artists' colony attracting, amongst others, songwriter and performer Leonard Cohen, the champion of depressive and suicidal ballads. He still has a house here.

Later it became a popular tourist island, but it has not experienced the extensive development of Mikonos or Rhodes and remains architecturally very much of the 18th and 19th centuries. In the summer months there are about 10 ferries a day and perhaps one or two cruise ships anchored off or berthed in the tiny harbour.