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Cephalonia(Nisos Kefallinia)

Across the narrow sea strait from Ithaca lies Cephalonia, the largest in area of the Ionian Islands. Like Ithaca, Cephalonia is rugged and steep-to. Starting at the Ν end of the island a jagged mountain spine runs S to the highest mountain of the Ionian Islands, Mount Nero, standing over 1,600m (5200ft) above sea level. Most of the slopes are bare rock, but in the valleys, particularly on the Ε side of the island, beautiful pine forests run down to the sea. Much of this forest is composed of a local fir tree, Abies cephalonica, a tall slim pine which, despite its name, grows elsewhere in Greece.

In ancient times Cephalonia formed part of the kingdom of Odysseus, and here at least archaeologists have been able to find evidence of the ancient sites mentioned in Homer. There were four important towns: Pale, Krane, Same, and Pronoi. Same or Sami (similarly Pale-Pali and Krane-Krani) was the most important town built on the heights immediately Ν of the small ferry port of the same name. Extensive ruins of all four towns remain, those at Krani being particularly well preserved relics of Mycenaean occupation. The tombs here are said to be the best examples of Mycenaean tombs in Greece.

Like many of the Ionian Islands, Cephalonia has close links with Italy,and a wartime story is often told which illustrates just how strong this association can be. The Italians invaded the islands in the early days of the Second World War but failed to gain real control. In 1943 the Germans landed in Cephalonia, but the occupying Italian force, some 9,000 troops of the Alpine Division, not only refused to co-operate but actually fought against them for seven days. Of the Italian force only 3,000 survived, and these were brutally lined up and shot, it is said on Hitler's personal orders. Only 34 survived and, so the story goes, one of the survivors swam to Ithaca where he was sheltered by the local Greeks until he escaped. Until recently he was captain on one of the Patras-Brindisi ferries and every time he passed Ithaca gave a long toot on the ship's horn to salute his Greek friends.

Captain Corelli's Mandolin, the novel by Louis de Bernières, picks up on this theme and is well worth reading for a fictional account that incorporates this awful bit of Second World War history. Recently it has been made into a film, though interestingly the governor of Cephalonia censored some of the material on the role of the communists in the war, and the film is neutered by this censorship.

Cephalonia produces some good wines, though not from its Italian connection but from local initiative, the French and, surprisingly, an Englishman. Although not cheap by Greek standards (in fact nearly double the price of the ubiquitous Demestica), the Robola whites and reds are excellent and for those who like a rosé, the Manzavino is also good.

The earthquake belt that blights the other Ionian Islands likewise touches Cephalonia. Edward Lear, when he was touring the Ionian Islands, recorded 43 small tremors in 1863 alone. The major earthquake 1953 effectively demolished every town on -ephalonia except Fiskárdho, because, it is said, it sits on a bed of soft clay. One inhabitant of Argostoli who experienced the '53 quake described to me how the ground undulated like a three-foot swell on the sea. In some of the rebuilding of Cephalonia there is a sameness about the reinforced concrete architecture that contrasts poorly with the gentle nineteenth-century grace of Fiskárdho.


ARGOSTOLI (Argostolion)
BA 2402
Imray-Tetra G12

Approach

Conspicuous From the W the large lighthouse on Ák Yero-Gombos is conspicuous. From the Ε Nisis Thionisi and a white hotel on Ák Pelagia are easily identified. Closing the low-lying Nisis Vardhiânoi it is safe to pass between it and Cephalonia, but a more prudent course is to stand off leaving the island to port and then proceed up the Gulf of Argostoli. Once you are in the Gulf of Argostoli, the town of Lixouri and a Doric-style lighthouse on Ák Áy Theodhoroi are conspicuous. Rounding the green wooded slopes of Ák Áy Theodhoroi keep to the middle of the inlet that forms the harbour of Argostoli. Leave the concrete beacon to starboard - although there are three metre depths between the beacon and the docks, there are also shoal patches close to the docks.
By night Use the light on Âk Yero-Gombos LFl(2)15s24M and closer in the light on Nisis Vardhiânoi Fl.WR.7-5s6/4M (red sector covers 080°-107°). (The range of the light on Nisis Vardhiânoi appears to be less than stated.) Once into the gulf use the light on Ák Áy Theodhoroi F1.3s5M and the light on the beacon Fl.G.3s3M.
The marina entrance is lit F1.R/F1.G.
Dangers Care is needed of the reef running SE from Ák Pelagia and of the reef running W from Ák Áy Nikolaos.
Note With a fresh afternoon breeze blowing down into the approaches to Argostoli (regularly Force 5-6 in the summer) it can be hair-raising entering this dead-end inlet for the first time.

Mooring

Berth stern or bows-to the S of the ferry quay or on the Ν end of the W quay. If clearing into Greece go on the S side of the ferry quay within the customs enclosure. The bottom is mud, good holding.
Shelter The ferry quay provides a good lee from the prevailing wind whistling down into the inlet.
Authorities A port of entry. Port police, customs and immigration.
Note See entries which follow for Argostoli Marina and Maistratos harbour.

Facilities

Water On the quay.
Fuel Can be delivered by mini-tanker. The nearest fuel station is near the market to the S of the yacht quay.
Repairs Mechanical and engineering work can be carried out. Electrical work.According to reports good emergency repairs have been carried out here. Good hardware shops but limited chandlery available. A small boatyard at Maistratos Harbour can haul yachts but there is limited hard-standing.
Provisions Good shopping in the town for provisions. Ice can be delivered.
Eating out Numerous tavernas in the town.
Other PO. OTE. Banks. ATMs. Greek gas and Camping Gaz. Hire cars, motorbikes and bicycles. Buses to most parts of Cephalonia. Regular car ferry to Lixouri. International and internal flights from the airport a short distance out of town.

General

In previous editions I have described Argostoli as looking 'like a frontier town - a Greek setting for a spaghetti western'. In recent years the town has metamorphosed into something which can almost be called chic. The pedestrianised main street has become all caffè latte and baguette, with outdoor cafés in between fashionable boutiques and jewellery shops. The residents take their coffee and conversation in a relaxed atmosphere and the hum of conversation lends the place an Italianate feel which of course is not out of place.

On Ák Áy Theodhoroi there is a reconstruction of the mill built by an Englishman, Stevens, in the 19th century. It is powered by the sea pouring into subterranean channels a team of Austrian scientists, by putting a dye in the water, showed that it eventually reappears at Melissani near Sami. The flow of water is now much reduced after the 1953 earthquake. Also on the headland is the Doric-style lighthouse, which is conspicuous from seawards.


ARGOSTOLI MARINA
38010'·90Ν 20°29'·76Ε WGS84

Note At the time of writing a large sign prohibits any boats from entering and, given that the local boat owners have not moved in, I think we can assume the authorities mean it.

Approach

The marina is on the Ε side of the arm running S to Argostoli docks. The light structures on the entrance are conspicuous. By night The marina entrance is lit F1.R/F1.G.

Mooring

Data c.250 berths. Max LOA c.30m. Depths 3-3·5m.
Berths Will be stern or bows-to with laid moorings. The marina has been dredged to 3-3·5m.
Shelter All-round shelter.

Facilities

Yet to be installed. Planned are water and electricity, toilet and shower block, fuel quay, and there is a travel-hoist bay with large hardstanding area nearby.

General

The structure of the marina is complete but as yet no facilities have been installed. It may be that the marina will be sold to a private operator or that the NTOG will hand the marina over to the local council.


MAISTRATOS HARBOUR

Approach

This small harbour with a mix of fishing boats and yachts lies approximately 1000m Ν of the commercial docks. The breakwater and boats inside are easily identified when heading down into the inlet towards Argostoli.
By night The entrance is lit Q.Y(occas).

Mooring

There is little room for visiting yachts. The best policy is to head for Argostoli and then walk up and enquire about a berth here. Yachts berth stern or bows-to on the NE and SE quay. The rest of the berths are occupied by fishing boats.
Shelter Good all-round shelter.

Facilities

Water on the quay. Provisions and tavernas nearby. Argostoli town is a short walk away.
Close to the entrance is a yard which can haul yachts. Yachts are craned out but the hardstanding area is relatively small. Mechanical and engineering repairs.


PORT ASSOS

Approach

A natural harbour on the W coast 6 miles S of Ák Dafnoudhi (Vlioti). A large Venetian fort on the headland forming the W side of the harbour is not as conspicuous as it might appear on the plan, but can usually be made out from the distance. Closer in the houses of the village and the mole will be seen.

Mooring

Go stern or bows-to the mole with a long line ashore, or anchor off. The short mole and the quayed area have mostly 1·5-2m depths, but the ballasting extends a considerable distance underwater, making it difficult to get close in. It is quite deep in the bay, some 7-1 Om mostly, coming up quickly to the quay. The bottom is mud, shingle, and weed, not everywhere good holding. With the normal NW winds a swell rolls into the harbour -uncomfortable and untenable with strong NW winds. There is no nearby shelter as the swell is just as bad on the S side of the headland in nearby Órmos Mirto.

Facilities

Good tavernas ashore and some provisions can be found.

General

The picturesque little harbour is popular with tourists in the summer but few yachts call here on account of the poor shelter from the prevailing NW winds. The Venetian fort, which enclosed a sizeable town, was built in the 16th century and is well worth a visit.


FISKÁRDHO (Phiscardo)
BA 2402
Imray-Tetra G121

Approach

Conspicuous It can be difficult to work out just where the bay is, though the general location at the Ν end of the Ithaca Strait is obvious. From the NE a number of new buildings in the bay immediately Ν of Fiskârdho are conspicuous. Closer in the twin ruined towers, the large stone lighthouse and the smaller Venetian lighthouse on the Ν side of Órmos Fiskárdho will be seen, although from the NE they can be difficult to pick out when the sun is low in the sky. The new villas and the hotel on the S side of the bay will also be seen. From the S the houses in the bay are easily discerned once you are past Nisis Dhaskalio which has a small chapel on it.
By night Use the light on Ák Fiskárdho (F1.3s7M).

Mooring

Go stern or bows-to on the S or W quay or on the new pontoon on the W side. Care is needed on the S quay where the ballasting protrudes underwater in places. Do not berth in the SW corner where local caϊques moor. In the summer the harbour gets crowded and you may have to anchor with a long line ashore to the Ν side. The bottom is sand, rocks and weed, reasonable holding.
Shelter Excellent shelter from all directions, although strong prolonged southerlies cause a surge, troublesome rather than dangerous.
Authorities Port police.

Facilities

Services Water and electricity on the pontoon. You may also be able to get water on the quay from a taverna or bar. Fuel Can be delivered by mini-tanker.
Provisions Good shopping for all provisions. Ice available.
Eating out Good tavernas and bars.
Other PO. OTE. Bank. ATM. Hire cars and motorbikes. Ferry to Frikes and Vasiliki.

General

Fiskárdho is a popular spot for yachts, and in the season the quay is stacked two or three deep. The safe port and picturesque 19th-century houses set amid green pine groves remain pretty much original and a historical preservation order will hopefully keep them that way. This was the only place on Cephalonia that escaped damage in the 1953 earthquake that devastated much of the Ionian.
The village is named after Robert Guiscard (thus Guiscardo/Phiscardo/Fiscardho), a Norman adventurer who briefly ruled these parts and who is said to have died of fever here in 1085. Unfortunately for local folk history, it is also recorded that he died in Vónitsa in the Gulf of Amvrakia - also of fever. The ruined Norman towers in the Ν of the bay are believed to be part of a church built in his memory.


SAMI
BA 2402

Approach

Conspicuous From the Ν the double-storeyed buildings lining the quay are asily visible under the green wooded slopes. From the S the harbour will not be seen until you are around Ák Dhekalia. Closer in the outer mole is easily identified.
By night Use the light on Ák Dhekalia Fl(2)R.8s5M and the light on the mole head Fl.R.2s4M.

Mooring

Go stern or bows-to or alongside the new pier inside the basin. The bottom is mud and good holding.
Shelter Reasonable shelter from the prevailing N-NW wind although a surge can develop as the sea is pushed through the arches let into the new pier.
Authorities Port police and customs.

Facilities

Water On the quay at the root of the mole, though it can be difficult to find the man to turn it on. Fuel Near the quay.
Provisions Good shopping for provisions near the quay.
Eating out Numerous tavernas and bars.
Other PO. OTE. Bank. ATM. Hire cars and motorbikes. Ferry to Patras.

General

Sami was completely rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake as the ferry terminal for Cephalonia. The green wooded slopes above Sami are attractive, but the town itself is mostly new, though now mellowing with the patina of a few years' ageing. It is an alternative to Ay Eufimia for visiting the semi-underground Lake Melissani and the Cave of Drogarati. The ruins of ancient Sami (Aegiala) are close to the SE of present-day Sami but there is little to see. Parts of the town and adjacent coast were used during the filming of Captain Corelli's Mandolin.

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